SQUIRRELS AND BIRD FEEDERS…      A CHALLENGING COMBINATION!

By Kathy Torres

Squirrels are cute little creatures, but they can really be a nuisance!  Known for feasting on bird seed, squirrels can take away all the joy of bird watching by snatching the seed away from the birds and totally disrupting the peace.  Besides the fact that good bird seed isn’t cheap, the other problem is the intended recipients are missing out. Squirrels can knock down the level of seed in a feeder very quickly, spilling about as much as they are stealing.  Because of their ability to reach high places and jump daring distances, it often seems that no bird feeder is off limits.  There are, however, a few things you can do to solve this problem…it is not a hopeless situation.

First of all, an important fact… squirrels can jump anywhere from 5 to 7 feet!  If possible, keep your feeder(s) 7 ft. from trees and 5 ft. off the ground, and you may not have any issues. To prevent access to your feeder, if you can’t quite adhere to these spacing requirements, try a

baffle. This piece of metal or plastic can go above or below a hanging feeder, and it creates an unsteady, smooth surface making it difficult for a squirrel to hang on.  Alternatives you may want to consider are squirrel-proof feeders or seed that the squirrels don’t like. 

The Backyard Nature Center at Wingard’s Market has a year-round inventory of birding products including a line of squirrel proof bird feeders.  The Squirrel Buster Sister Collection by Brome is a series of 3 sizes of feeders configured to eliminate access by squirrels.  Openings in the shroud (wire net covering of the seed tube) align with the feeding ports, providing birds access to the food. When a squirrel climbs onto the feeder, its weight automatically forces the shroud down, closing access to the ports. Squirrels and some large birds are shut out but not harmed in any way. 

The seed ports have perches for perching birds and the wire shroud provides a surface area for clinging birds. This increases your bird traffic.

Transparent seed tubes trap solar energy. Conventional seed tube designs block the escape of the heated air. Brome’s patented Seed Tube Ventilation™ permits humidity and hot air to escape through vents at the top of the feeder and replaces it with fresh air. Bird food remains fresher, attracting more wild birds.

Lifetime Care is how Brome stands behind their products. Call them! A real person will answer the phone and gladly help you. Monday through Friday, from 9am to 5pm EST, except holidays.

All feeder parts exposed to squirrels are made with chew proof materials. All components are UV resistant. Feeders are designed to be dismantled by hand into individual components without the use of tools. This allows for easy cleaning and maintenance.

A patented weight adjustable spring mechanism controls how much weight the shroud will support allowing the birds to feed. Any additional weight will activate the closing mechanism.

Another effective way to deter squirrels is to fill the feeder with something they don’t like…chili pepper.  Cole’s Blazing Hot Blend was created solely for this purpose.   A little science from Cole’s Wild Bird Products Company:  the chili pepper plant evolved over time to be attractive to birds and distasteful to other animals that might look to make it a meal. When a bird eats a chili, the seeds remain intact and pass through the bird’s droppings where they are spread over a

wide area to grow and multiply, but the digestive tracts of mammals destroy the chili seeds when ingested. So, as a defense mechanism chili plants taste hot to mammals like people, dogs, squirrels, rabbits, etc., while birds cannot taste the heat at all.  Cole’s also stands behind this science… there is no actual or permanent physical damage to the eye, nose, or throat tissues of any bird or animal that eats it.   Saffron seed is also unpopular with squirrels, so this is another choice to use to discourage them. 

In conclusion, by using a squirrel buster or a seed that is not pleasing, those pesky squirrels will go elsewhere for their food and the problem can be eliminated.  You can then place a feeder just about anywhere (disregarding the distance from a tree or the ground).  These product will allow you to truly enjoy watching the birds without interference from squirrels.

Spring is on the way, however our feathered friends are still relying on a little help throughout the remaining cold weather.  A backyard bird feeder is a wonderful way to accomplish this, and the perk is enjoying these wildlife creatures all year long.  You’re invited to come out and visit Wingard’s Backyard Nature Center to take a look at the many products available for birding.  Talk to the Department Manager, Zach Steinhauser, about upcoming bird watching excursions.  Here is a sneak peak of what is waiting for you!

THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING BLOOMING AT WINGARD’S!

By Kathy Torres

Growing up, my family always had a dog or a cat (sometimes both) as well as parakeets, hamsters, and tropical fish. Because my Dad was in the Army, we moved a lot, and when we did, we had quite the menagerie of pets that traveled along with us. It was comical, as I recall. As an adult, I became a bit more practical. Currently, Sam, a 65-pound Catahoula mix is almost more than my husband and I can handle. We can’t keep food on the kitchen counter or ANYWHERE within his reach, or it will swiftly disappear! He eats lizards, frogs and anything else that moves in the yard, as well as leaves, sticks, and even dirt. What am I leading up to with this personal pet background story? Well, because he will eat just about anything, I’m really careful about indoor plants that I have in my home because I believe Sam wouldn’t think twice about munching on them. There are many houseplants that are toxic to dogs, so it’s important to me to select the ones that are safe, just in case.

There are many beautiful houseplant varieties that add greenery to home décor, improve air quality AND they are NON-TOXIC to dogs and cats. Here are just a few to consider if you have a pet that is a muncher:

While the plants shown are considered NON-TOXIC to pets, it’s wise to make sure that your dog or cat doesn’t ingest a large portion of any of them. The effects should not be traumatic, however digestive problems like vomiting or diarrhea may result. Keeping plants on a table or high shelf can discourage pets from nibbling. Spending time training them to stay away from plants is also a good idea. Of course, dogs will be dogs and cats will be cats, so that brings us back to our obligation to protect them. If you have plants in your home and you wish to find out if they are toxic to pets, you can access the ASPCA’s
(American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) list of poisonous plants by clicking HERE. Search by plant name and learn whether it is toxic or non-toxic to dogs or cats.

Some common house plants TOXIC to pets are: Aloe, Amaryllis, Asparagus Fern, Dieffenbachia, Easter Lily, English Ivy, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Kalanchoe, Peace Lily, Philodendron, Poinsettia, and Snake Plant. If you have any of these in your home and have a pet, you should rethink or make sure they are not accessible to your 4-legged buddy.

Indoor plants, just like plants in the landscape, need fertilizer on a regular basis to flourish. Make sure that any fertilizer you use is non-toxic to pets.

Wingard’s green house is a great place to find a wide variety of houseplants to add to your home. Talk with a staff member for advice on plants that are safe for pets and get the scoop on their specific needs. If you have never had live plants in your home, you may need a little education on caring for them. Most are fairly easy and quite honestly, will do best if you ignore them a bit. Here are a few things to know:

We think of our pets as members of the family, and as such, they really deserve to be loved and cared for. I do love my dog, Sam, (even when he’s a handful). I also love my houseplants. It takes some effort to make sure the two can live in harmony and good health, but it’s worth it. Looks like Sam’s doing OK, don’t ya think?

There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

Fall is officially upon us, however, it really doesn’t feel like it yet. Hopefully, soon we will have a change in the weather, bringing cool mornings and evenings, milder temperatures in the afternoons, low humidity, and more frequent rain. The arrival of fall weather usually encourages us to get back in the yard to prune shrubs a little, cut back or remove annual plants, or take a look at perennials that may have become too crowded. Taking into account that COLD weather is on the way, it’s important to address these tasks before it gets here!

Dividing perennials is a form of propagation: you are creating multiple plants from a single plant. This practice will give you more plants (for free) to fill empty spots or share with friends and neighbors. When plants become crowded, they may not receive enough water or nutrients from the soil. Dividing will invigorate plant growth and flower production. It’s fairly simple… dig them up, separate the roots, and replant.

Spring is a better time for dividing for some perennials, especially those that bloom in the fall. Most perennials, however, can be divided in fall. There is usually more rain, which makes digging them up easier, and results in less watering for you. It is also easier to determine which plants are overgrown at the end of the summer season, and bare spots in the landscape are more obvious. Perennials with a moderate growth rate may need dividing only every 3-5 years. Others that spread more rapidly like catmint, hyssop, and Japanese painted fern can be divided every year if necessary.

Here are the basic steps to divide perennials:

1. 1. Dig the Clump: Insert spade or shovel into the soil around the perimeter and deep enough to isolate as much of the root ball as possible.
   2. Remove the Clump: Once the shovel is under the root ball, lever the root ball up and down to loosen and position it on the shovel. Then, lift the shovel and root ball. Keep the root system intact as much as possible. Once the plant is out of the ground, shake excess soil from around the root ball (this will make it easier to pull the clump apart).
      Hint: Use a hose to gently wash away soil from roots.
   3. Separate the Crowns: Gently pry crowns and roots apart ensuring that there are leaves as well as roots on each separated clump. Some plants may require a sharp knife or even an axe to cut a dense root ball. Liriope, AKA Monkey Grass, and Elephant Ear are examples. You may lose a portion of the root, but don’t worry, these regenerate like crazy.
      Hint: After dividing your plants, use pruners to clip away dead or damaged stems, and pluck out any weeds. Cut long daylily and iris leaves down by half; this will make these plants easier to handle.
   4. Replant: Prepare the area by loosening soil and adding compost. Be sure to plant at the same depth as originally planted. Don’t fertilize. Wait until spring when new growth appears. Water well and cover with mulch to help conserve moisture while newly divided plants become established. If there are periods without rain, be sure to water sufficiently. Plants may become a bit droopy after planting but should bounce back.

“A picture is worth a thousand words,” they say, so here are a few examples of how divided plants should look when prepared for replanting.

Daylilies	Irises
Hostas	Garden Phlox

Although it is a simple thing to do, there are a couple of rules that apply when dividing plants.

1. 1. • Do not divide when a plant is blooming or if the plant is stressed (yellow or brown leaves), especially during periods of drought.
      • Divide before frost occurs. You want to have a little time for the roots to get established and if the crowns above ground are damaged, it may affect the new plant’s survival.
      • Plant as soon as possible so that roots don’t dry out. If you must wait a day or two, sprinkle the roots with a little water and keep them in a shady spot.

Some plants, like bee balm, Siberian iris, or astilbe, grow outward in a ring, leaving a dead spot in the center. To reinvigorate them, dig up the whole clump, shake off as much soil as possible, and split the outer ring of healthy plants into smaller sections for replanting. Toss out the woody centers and any damaged or diseased parts of the plant.

Perennials reward us with their return year after year. For me, it is always a thrill to see new growth coming up in spring from treasured perennials. I’m pretty sure if you’re reading this blog, you feel the same way, so take care to water and fertilize your perennials so they will thrive. Divide as needed to maintain their health and beauty and your rewards will be multiplied!

There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

Have you ever witnessed the process of a caterpillar changing into a butterfly?  Known as “metamorphosis,” it is nothing short of amazing to observe.  We all learned about it in science class, but in case you’ve forgotten, there are 4 stages… egg, larva, pupa, and adult.  The larva stage is the caterpillar.  This little critter builds a cocoon or chrysalis around its body and eventually busts out as a beautiful butterfly or moth.  Sounds perfect, yes?  Well unfortunately, the caterpillar chows down on the host plant in order to continue through this process.  It’s still amazing to watch, however, there is some sacrifice involved.  Because the end result is  a useful pollinator, it becomes a puzzle as to whether or not the caterpillar is welcome or discouraged in the garden.  (Pictured to right Eastern Tiger Swallowtail Caterpillar and Butterfly).

Caterpillars can damage foliage significantly and very quickly.  There are numerous varieties that plague the garden, but are they all BAD?  If you want to encourage the “end result” in the metamorphosis process, should all these little guys be considered pests? Consider the Monarch Butterfly or the Hummingbird Moth.  Both are a welcome site to behold and both can be useful.  While researching these and other questions, like “how can I tell the good ones from the harmful ones,” I came across an article/blog that lays it out perfectly…with photos. 

Brie Arthur writes on the topic, Are Caterpillars Pests or Pollinators? You Might Be Surprised.  A best-selling author, nationally recognized speaker and horticulturist, you can learn more about Brie HERE.  I think the typical response to finding caterpillars in the garden is to get rid of them.  After reading this article, you may reconsider, at least when it comes to the good caterpillars.  Use of native plants in the landscape presents an option, or growing fennel, milkweed and/or passion vine to provide a food source for caterpillars that become pollinators, is a consideration that is organic and good for the environment.  (Pictured left Hummingbird Clearwing Caterpillar and Moth).

If you are interested in learning more, you can check out the article HERE.

If you need help identifying a caterpillar found in your landscape, contact the Lexington County Extension Office, (803.359.8515) or go to 67 Types of Caterpillars (with Pictures): Identification Guide online.  If you have an iPhone, go to the App Store and download this free App… Caterpillar Identifier. 

Instead of trying to eliminate every caterpillar that you find in the garden, think about the possibility of living in harmony so you can enjoy the final stage of the metamorphosis process.  Who doesn’t love to see a Monarch spreading its colorful wings in flight on a sunny day in August? 

There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

Summer officially arrives June 20th and we better be ready for some heat.  Maybe not too much right-away, but it’s coming!  Temperatures will typically hang in the 80’s and 90’s with a possible rise into the 100’s here in the Midlands of South Carolina.  Add high humidity and it makes for a very hot summer.  June is usually not too bad, but July and August will test your endurance, especially when we have a “wave” of higher than normal temperatures.  For humans, a South Carolina summer can be a challenge.  With typical periods of drought that often occur during the summer and into September, combined with the extreme heat and humidity, plants will certainly suffer without proper care.  

While heat stroke, wildfires, etc. are much more serious, even catastrophic issues caused by extreme heat and drought, plants in the landscape are an investment in a home that we don’t want to lose.  While they represent a lesser priority, keeping them alive is important.  By paying attention and providing sufficient water, the work that was put in and the money spent won’t be wasted.

Having some understanding of plant science may help you to understand what happens during a heat/drought wave.  Small pores (stomata) help to regulate the amount and distribution of water that is absorbed by a plant, affecting metabolism and ability to grow.  Water is absorbed through the roots, traveling upward by capillaries, similar to a pumping heart.  Typically at night when it’s cooler, the stomata open to regulate the plant’s temperature and reduce water loss.  During periods of extreme heat and drought the stomata close, stopping the movement of water through the plant and eliminating the cooling mechanism. 

Providing adequate water is the key to helping plants through the heat and drought often experienced during the summer months.  Automatic irrigation is great, however, there is no “one size fits all” for lawns, shrubs, flower beds, etc.  It takes some planning to provide the appropriate amount of water for each plant specimen in the landscape.  The depth of roots is a key factor in determining the amount of water and length of time necessary to water adequately.  Automatic irrigation is ideal for lawns as it can provide water for a large area in a short period of time.  Also, roots are shallow and do not require deep penetration.  About an inch a week will usually take care of most southern grasses.  Drip lines work well for shrubs and trees that need to be watered more deeply, by distributing it slowly and in a smaller quantity, so that it seeps into the ground, rather than running off.  Note: It’s better to water less often and more deeply, than frequent, shallow watering.  This will keep roots from moving upward to the ground surface in search of water.   Individual watering lines for hanging baskets and container gardens are a time saver (versus watering by hand), however it can be tricky because some plants require more and some require less water.  When hand-watering, it’s best to use a watering wand with a “shower” feature.  Water, let it soak in, then water again to make sure you are soaking the roots.  This method of watering is called “Cycle and Soak” and can be used to water deep rooted plants, whether in the ground or in a container. 

Soil type is a significant factor in determining how much water is needed in hot, dry weather.  In the Midlands, typically soil is composed of sand or clay.  Clay is dense, holding water, and sand allows water to flow through quickly.  It is important not to overwater shrubs and trees in clay soil, as the roots may rot.  Sandy soil is the opposite; the “Cycle and Soak” method is best in sand.  Regardless of what soil type you have, it is advisable to let roots dry out between waterings under normal climate conditions.  During a heat wave or drought or both, drying out happens very quickly and plants can be damaged.  It’s challenging to water appropriately during these extreme circumstances, so try to check soil dampness if you can.  By digging a small hole in the surrounding soil with your finger or a small trowel, you may be able to feel the dampness.  Another way is to insert a metal rod into the soil.  When the soil becomes hard and the rod will not go further down, it is likely too dry.  The size of the plant should help you determine whether or not water is getting down deep enough. 

Sunshine is the other critical factor to consider when keeping plants sufficiently watered in the severe heat.   If you notice the grass looking pale, or a footprint or crunching results from walking on it, you may need to increase watering.  Either add an extra day or increase the length of time you are watering.  Most lawns will survive, but will not look green and healthy if lacking water.  Plants in full sun (all day long) will need more water than plants in part sun or shade.  Established shrubs and trees, especially those in full sun, that you may not usually water during most of the summer, may need attention if blooms or leaves are wilting or leaves are turning yellow, curling up or turning brown, you may need to provide water to help them through.  For newly planted shrubs and trees, it is likely that extra (deep) watering will be necessary to get them through the months of extreme heat and drought.  A trick for newly planted trees is to place a 5-gallon bucket of water with a tiny hole in the bottom next to the tree trunk.  The water will slowly seep into the ground.  Gator bags are also available for purchase to slowly water trees as needed.  For annuals and perennials in full sun, daily (or even twice daily) watering may be necessary, especially if planted in pots.  Keep an eye on the soil dampness on top and beneath and water as needed.  Be careful not to overwater – it is easy to do.  Plants receiving more shade during the day will not dry out quite as fast, but on the hottest days, may require more water than usual.  Check the soil dampness and also look for wilting or changes in the leaves. 

Another way to tell that plants are suffering in the heat and drought is if they are not growing.  If new growth is not appearing, the plant may be stifled by the high temperatures and lack of sufficient water.  In a vegetable garden, you may see blooms drop or fruit drop before it has matured.  The plant may discard fruit in order to survive.  Adding a tent made of shade cloth, or an umbrella that keeps the sun off during the hottest part of the day, may help your vegetable garden if it is struggling.

Something to consider to be prepared for extremely hot weather is to incorporate plants that are built to take it, like native or sun-loving, drought tolerant plants.  Tropicals are great because they love hot, humid weather, (although they are considered annuals because they typically do not survive the winter).  Avoid new planting during these extremely hot and dry periods.  Success is more unlikely during these conditions. 

There’s still a little time to plant before the brutally hot weather arrives.  For suggestions, check out these websites for heat and drought tolerant plants: 

Proven Winners          Bob Villa         Clemson          Southern Living           Plant Native

Mulching around trees and plant beds is another way to help plants through the summer heat by slowing evaporation in the soil and moderating the soil temperature.  Ground cloth can be placed underneath to slow weed growth (weeds will also take up the water), just remember not to use plastic.  Water will not penetrate plastic!

The best place to be when the HOT and DRY temperatures hit is the beach, under a palm tree, with an ocean breeze blowing by… or in a pool… or inside with the AC blasting and a good book or Netflix series to entertain you.  Wishing you one or all of these experiences this summer.  But don’t forget about your plants!  If you go away, make sure a friend or neighbor takes care of watering for you.  While you’re home, keep an eye on your plants and give them the water they need.  Oh yes, and pray for rain!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

My husband says, “You should always use the right tool for the job.” He builds power plants, so using the wrong tool or equipment can slow down the project, resulting in additional cost or an accident. It’s a practical approach that can be applied to many chores and projects, large and small. In the gardening world, an example might be… using a spade to dig a hole to plant a tree when a shovel is needed; or… using the hose end, rather than a watering wand attached to the hose to water your delicate annuals. It’s common sense, but we humans get in a hurry to complete a task, taking shortcuts that end up making the job harder, damaging plant material, or even causing injury. Many gardening tools and accessories exist to make the job easier and Wingard’s has recently added the Garden Shed which houses these items. Now that spring has arrived, it’s time to get busy in the garden, so you’re invited to come in and check it out. I’m almost positive you will find something that will make your upcoming garden project(s) just a little bit easier and more efficient!

Not only is it important to use the right tools, keeping them clean, sharpened and protected is a must. Properly maintained, they will last longer, work more efficiently and will not spread disease from sick plants to healthy ones. A bit of extra effort will be well worth it in the long run.

CLEANING:
Scrub tools with a wire brush to remove dirt; machine wash garden gloves, rags, etc. on HOT (shake off loose dirt first). Immerse tools in a mixture of water and household bleach. Click HERE for details. Turpentine can be used to remove sap; soak tools in vinegar if rusty. Give wooden handles a light rubbing with linseed oil.

SHARPENING (Hoes, Shears, Scissors, Knives, Loppers, Pruners, Shovels, etc.):
Wipe blades with WD-40 or other lubricant. File blades at a 20-45° angle; for most tools, it’s usually easiest to follow the original bevel. (Most blades can be filed with a 10” flat mill file.) For items that need a finer edge (pruners or shears), use a sharpening stone (whetstone) to finish the edge. FYI… Wingard’s now offers a cleaning/sharpening service for small tools like pruners and loppers for $5/each.

STORAGE:
Even when you know you will use tools the next day, don’t leave them out in the elements. Keep them in a shed or garage where they can be kept dry and they will be much less likely to rust.

You will find a well-organized display of tools and other useful items you may be interested in adding to your collection of “must haves” inside the Garden Shed at Wingard’s. Here’s a peek inside…

Below Left to Right:
Rose Gloves, Garden Bench/Kneeler, Carbide Sharpening Tool, Under Plant Sprinkler, and Yard Butler Hand Tiller

Whatever you have planned for the garden this year, make sure you have the right tool for the job. It can really contribute to the success of your project. In addition to the items shown above, you’ll find everything from garden gloves and sleeves, to watering cans and wands, decorative perennial plant supports, clippers, pruners, and more, all in one place at Wingard’s in the Garden Shed. Shop this new department and enhance your gardening experience!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

While you still have a little time to prepare for the growing season ahead, it’s a good idea to create a plan for fertilizing your plants and to stock up on the supplies you need. The chores are numerous in the spring, so be ready when the conditions are right. By following an established schedule for fertilizing, you are providing the best care for your plants, giving them the nutrients needed to flourish, at a time that is most advantageous. When it comes to fertilizing, there’s not a “one size fits all” however, with a little guidance on products and proper application, you’ll see it’s not too complicated.

To start… it’s good to have a basic understanding of the science of fertilizers, and to know that all plants have different needs and all fertilizers are not the same. Available in synthetic and organic forms, most plant fertilizers are created to address those specific needs. A key message on the packaging or label of a fertilizer blend is the N-P-K content, which indicates the ratio of 3 critical nutrients by weight: (1) nitrogen, (2) phosphorus and (3) potassium (standardized in this order). These are necessary for healthy plants and not often available in sufficient quantities in the soil. Each has a particular effect:

• Nitrogen (N) is necessary for leaf health and makes plants greener.
• Phosphorous (P) promotes root growth and increases bloom and fruit production.
• Potassium (K) helps plants fight disease and remain vigorous in extreme temperatures. Note that potassium is usually provided in the form of potash, also known as K2O.

The N-P-K numbers represent the percentage of the weight of the bag that is attributable to each component. To understand what you’re getting in a bag of fertilizer, here’s a simple example: a 100-pound bag of 10-10-10 (basic, all-purpose) contains ten pounds each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The rest is filler, which gives it bulk and makes it easier to spread. As you become familiar with different fertilizers, you will notice many specialized blends, such as 19-8-10, for plants needing more nitrogen, or 9-15-13, for plants needing more phosphorous. Because there is usually more potassium found naturally in the soil, it’s not likely to find an N-P-K with the highest number being potassium, however, more is typically needed.

Existing ornamental shrubs and trees in your landscape, whether evergreen or deciduous (drops leaves in fall/winter), should be fertilized in spring when new growth appears, usually in mid to late March. A late frost or freeze can throw things off by damaging the tender new growth, so if the forecast looks wintery, wait a bit longer to apply fertilizer. For most plants in this category, one spring application is sufficient, although some varieties are heavy feeders and require additional applications. If you have mature trees and shrubs, especially if they are grown in good soil, they may not need any fertilizer at all.

Timing and application varies for fertilizing these shrubs and trees:

Mark your calendar for February to fertilize roses (prune first) and pecan trees. This is the official starting point for the year. In Mid-March (temperatures permitting) it is time to get busy on ornamental shrubs and trees, then, as indicated above for the “special” ones. Be sure to mark the calendar for those plants that will need additional applications. These require a little extra and/or a blend that will meet specific needs, such as soil acidity.

Speaking of soil acidity, it’s a good idea every 3 or 4 years to have your soil tested so you will know the pH and if soil amendments are needed. Having proper pH can affect how well the plants will grow in the soil and will impact the effectiveness of fertilizers. Wingard’s can provide assistance in coordinating soil sampling and testing with Clemson Extension Service in Lexington. Just ask staff at the checkout for details.

Typically, fertilizer is applied at the dripline of a tree or shrub and care should be taken to avoid getting too close to the trunk(s). For more columnar or narrow plants, applying a little further out than the dripline is more desirable. For more information on this, as well as general information on fertilizing shrubs and trees, click HERE to access Clemson’s Fact Sheet on this topic.

It is not necessary to fertilize NEW plantings of shrubs and trees right away, however, Bio-Tone Starter (composed of micronutrients… bacteria, humates & mycorrhizae) is recommended to increase root mass and help avoid transplant loss. If you plant in the spring, wait 6-8 weeks to apply fertilizer; if you plant in the fall, wait until the following spring.

Annuals and Perennials add an abundance of color and interest in the landscape and are plentiful at Wingard’s in spring and summer. Because the growing period for these beauties is in the warm to extremely hot time of year, they need a bit more help to stay healthy and to put on their best show. Make sure you have good, rich potting soil and fertilize from time of planting throughout the season according to label directions. Choose a slow-release fertilizer that works for 3 or 6 months or a 30-day fertilizer. Add these fertilizers to the top of the soil after planting and gently work the granules into the top layer of the soil. For maximum results, add a water-soluble weekly fertilizer for a little extra boost. An IMPORTANT TIP (hinted at this earlier) for purchasing fertilizers for these big bloomers is to look for a high middle number in the N-P-K.

The folks at Wingard’s have put together a flyer with the timing guidelines mentioned above for applying fertilizer, along with product recommendations readily available in the garden center. Click HERE to access the flyer.

When using any fertilizer, ALWAYS…

• Read and follow instructions on the container or label.
• Avoid adding more than indicated or you may cause damage to the plant.
• Water-in fertilizer when applied, otherwise the plant(s) will not absorb it.
• Store in a protected area that will not get wet.

Margaret Atwood, a Canadian novelist and poet, has a quote that really sums it all up for me. “In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt!” Spring is just around the corner and I must admit, I am excited about getting my hands dirty, seeing the grass turn green, buds forming on my yellow rose bush, new growth flushing out of the ground that will host beautiful day lilies and bare hardwoods becoming bright green with new foliage. Yes, there is work that comes with it, like raking all the leaves out of the beds, picking up branches and sticks, and removing last year’s dead roots from all the pots. And then… fertilizing. Maintenance is not my favorite gardening task, but I know it is necessary to keep plants growing, thriving and looking good. In gardening, it is pretty much ongoing. After everything is planted and fertilized, there is watering, deadheading, looking out for pests, and weeding. But, between the chores are the moments when the sun is shining and the temperature is getting warmer, birds are singing and rushing to and from the feeders, the buds are opening for bright, colorful blooms, and the joy of the garden is upon you. Happy spring…Enjoy!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

We live in a world today in which dietary supplements are numerous and often it can be confusing as to which are truly valuable to overall health. If you’re like me, you grew up with the understanding that adding a multi-vitamin to your daily food intake was a good way to “fill in the gap” on what you may have missed. And… other than a little extra Vitamin C when you had a cold, you were good to go. That is, if what existed in your 3- meals-a-day diet was from the infamous food pyramid. Man, how things have changed!

The focus on nutrition and health today is constantly evolving, resulting in many benefits to modern health, while encouraging us to seriously consider what we are putting in our bodies, however, it can be overwhelming trying to figure it all out! There are multitudes of available supplements for our daily food intake that have led to another avenue of improving overall health, sometimes even providing solutions to health issues that might have warranted prescription drugs. A return to natural remedies (as in those days before mega-pharmaceutical companies) is popular and proving to be very effective.

Elderberry, Simbucus canadensis, is a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree (grows in zones 3-9), producing white flowers and black berries. It has a long history of medicinal use by virtually all human cultures for centuries, “Plants were probably deposited in Europe, Asia, and North America by retreating glaciers by 9,000 B.C.E. Seeds from Elderberry found in Neolithic pole-dwellings in Switzerland suggest that the plant was in cultivation by about 2000 B.C.E.” Note: B.C.E. = B.C. “Historically, Elderberry was known as the medicine chest of the country people and was used to cure just about anything. Elderflower water was applied to the skin to remove freckles and keep the complexion fair. The Romans created a hair dye made from the dark juice of the berries.” Click on this link History Herb Society for more information on this plant.

The Elderberry tonics and syrups began to appear in stores in recent years due to effectiveness in reducing cold and flu symptoms and was often used during the Covid-19 pandemic. While more scientific research is needed, some of the health issues, in addition to upper respiratory ailments, that may potentially be affected by Elderberry are:

• Immune System
• Heart Health
• Chronic Fatigue Syndrome
• Digestive Health
• Weight Management
• Metabolic Health
• Urination
• Headaches
• Sinus Infections

Right now, you might be thinking… what’s in this tonic? The medicinal properties of Elderberries are reportedly attributable mostly to their high content of flavonoids, micronutrients with antioxidant properties found naturally in plants. Antioxidants destroy unstable molecules called “free radicals” that can damage cells. Fruits with red, purple, blue or black hues tend to be rich in flavonoids/antioxidants. Elderberry is also full of Vitamin C and fiber. The health effects of these nutrients include cardiovascular, neurodegenerative and inflammatory disorders, as well as anti-diabetic, anti-cancer, anti-viral, and immune-stimulatory. This information was gathered from a report by the National Institutes of Health, National Library of Medicine. See link NIH Report #1.

We started carrying Elderberry Tonic in the Wingard’s Produce Market a few years before the pandemic and have added to the product line since then. Elderberry is now available in many forms in addition to the original tonics and syrups. Local pharmacies and grocery stores, as well as vitamin stores offer tablets, capsules and gummies. Teas may also be found if you prefer.

The NIH confirms that studies have supported the antiviral properties of Elderberry fruit, making it necessary to further study other properties. “Considering the growing fashion for natural, organic and health-promoting food, it can be concluded that Elderberry as a natural component of food products fits perfectly into this trend and has a good chance to increase its role as a beneficial component of a healthy diet.” See link NIH Report #2.

Despite the many positive effects of elderberry, it may not be for everyone. Always discuss with your physician and pharmacist before adding supplements to your diet, especially if you are pregnant, nursing, or taking prescription medications and/or other supplements.

Every part of the elderberry plant contains cyanogenic glycosides, a substance that releases cyanide. Ingestion of uncooked berries or other parts of the plant can cause dangerous levels of cyanide to build up within the body. While the flowers contain slightly less of this element, the stems, leaves and bark of the elderberry plant are particularly dangerous and should never be consumed uncooked, especially by small children. Additional details on precautions and possible drug interactions may be found at this link MOUNT SINAI.

We are learning more and more every day about taking care of our bodies by eating healthy foods. The rewards and benefits from plant-based foods versus the harmful effects of many processed foods are well-known and we are encouraged by doctors and nutritionists to increase our intake of fruits and vegetables. When we are not as likely to do that, natural supplements may be something to consider. These substances have survived the test of time, so maybe we can take advantage of the wisdom of past civilizations to improve our health and ability to fight illness. We desire and deserve a long, healthy life, don’t you think? Let’s do everything WE can to make it happen!

We hope you’ll visit Wingard’s Produce Market and check out Elderberry and other natural dietary supplement products offered for you and your family.

Additional Links:

Elderberry & Weight Management WSU

NIH Report – Elderberry Usefulness & Safety

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

The impressionists were masters of color and very clever in how they used contrasting colors to create stunning visual effects.  Take a look (left) at Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles, 1889 by Vincent Van Gogh.  As a general rule, contrasting colors are directly across from each other on the color wheel.  Note the very intense red of the bedsheet which compliments the dull green of the floor and the intense orange of the bed frame which stands out against the weaker blue of the walls and door.

Interior décor is absolutely a result of the designer or owner’s personal taste in terms of color, however, to achieve interest, balance, warmth, drama, etc., using complimentary color combinations or various tones of the same basic color are necessary to create a visual that is pleasing to the eye.  Typically, contrast or complimentary colors come into play through wall and trim colors, or accompanying linens, accent pieces and art.   

Think of your landscape as a piece or art or décor.  With the same idea of adding color or contrasting tones with a combination of shrubs, trees, perennials and annuals, the result can greatly enhance your landscape and the basic curb appeal of your home!  It’s easy to get stuck in an “all green” landscape plan when installing foundation plants or establishing garden beds, and while the plants may be lovely, the total picture just doesn’t POP.   The view of your yard can be more lush and beautiful by adding evergreen trees and shrubs with varying foliage colors, as well as annuals and perennials with striking bloom color combinations.  Using contrasting color in your shrubs and trees will provide interest even in winter months when flowering annuals and perennials are dormant.

Luckly, there are a number of evergreen trees and shrubs that fit the bill.  The best way to decide on plants to add contrast is to stroll through the nursery and look for any that are not  green!  Believe it or not, simply adding a different shade of green as an accent will do the trick, but you may prefer chartreuse or burgundy foliage.   Here are a few varieties that can complement those solid green shrubs:  

Angelica Blue Juniper
Densely branched, wide-spreading shrub with a mature size of 6-10 ft W x 5-6 ft T.  This variety is one of the low growing junipers admired for its bright blue-green needle foliage.  Its branches are more arching than creeping.   Plant in full sun to part shade.

Carolina Sapphire Cypress
Cypress trees are evergreen, with scales instead of leaves. Developed by Clemson University and the South Carolina Forestry Commission, the Carolina Sapphire is a silver-blue, fast-growing, pyramid-shaped tree with an airy, loose branch structure.  Great for privacy screening or a focal point in the landscape.  Tiny pinecones and yellow blooms appear in late fall; cut branches make nice holiday wreaths.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Radiance Abelia
This variegated Abelia will reach 3-4 ft Tall x 4-5 ft Wide, with a weeping growth habit.  Fairly fast growing with small, delicate white blooms in late summer.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Kaleidoscope Abelia
Another variety of Abelia, Kaleidoscope’s growth rate and mature size are about the same as Radiance.  The foliage offers more variegated pink and yellow hues with the same small white blooms in late summer.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Loropetalum
Loropetalum is a popular evergreen that is available in many varieties with mature sizes in the small, medium and large categories.  Foliage is burgundy; some varieties are more red and some are more purple.  Pink fringe-type blooms appear in spring and often repeat (not quite as profusely) in fall.  Some pruning is needed to keep them in a round shape, however selecting the appropriate variety, keeping in mind the mature size, can help keep pruning to a minimum.  Notice in this photo, the nice contrast next to the variegated pittosporum.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Mojo Dwarf Pittosporum
This tough, compact, evergreen shrub brightens the garden with beautiful splashes of creamy white on the edges of its shiny green leaves. Small, white fragrant flowers bloom in spring.  Mature size is 3 ft T x 3 ft W.   Does not like wet feet, so make sure it dries out between waterings and don’t plant in an area that stays damp.  Standard Variegated Pittosporum is also available if you need a larger shrub, 6-8 ft T x 6-8 ft W.  Plant in part shade.

Dwarf Nandina AKA Heavenly Bamboo is evergreen and great for grouping in plant beds.  This small, airy shrub is very low maintenance with very little pruning needed.  Popular varieties offer colorful foliage in reds, pinks or lime green.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Cryptomeria ‘Globosa Nana’ AKA Japanese Cedar
Japanese cedar is a woody, needled evergreen in the Cypress family.  An extremely old cultivar, the dwarf dome form of ‘Globosa Nana’ is grown for its attractive foliage.  Its bluish-green needles become rusty-red during the winter months, making this specimen a great addition to your winter garden.   Low maintenance, little if any pruning needed.  Plant in full sun.

Sunshine Ligustrum is a non-invasive member of the Privet family.  Appropriately named, you will love the lime green to bright yellow foliage of this evergreen shrub.  Definitely makes a statement in groupings or planted next to green or burgundy shrubs.  Mature size is 3-6 ft T x 3-4 ft W.  Plant in full sun to achieve the brightest foliage color.

Another possibility for adding contrasting color AND texture/shape is by adding grasses.  Most are perennial, however there are a few types that last through the winter.   On your next visit to Wingard’s, ask about Lomandra Breeze and Carex grasses.  Most grasses prefer sun, however, Carex grass can take some shade.

So… channel your inner artist or designer and come up with a plan to enhance the color in your landscape, OR consider Wingard’s Landscape Design Program (CLICK HERE) to help you along.  Adding contrast can make a major difference in the “Big Picture” of your landscape.  Think about the plants above and don’t forget about colorful annuals like pansies and snap dragons, planted in a flower bed or decorative pottery.   These are plentiful at Wingard’s and NOW is the time to plant them.  Spring and summer aren’t the only seasons to enjoy color and contrast in the landscape.  By “tweaking” things a bit, you can provide beautiful contrast that will last all year long!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

A problem that is becoming more prevalent in South Carolina, affecting one of the most popular ornamental trees grown in our region, is Crape Myrtle Bark Scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae).  Scale is an insect, however the infestation results in sooty mold, which is a disease.  This combination can drastically affect the appearance and health of the tree.  CMBS was initially sighted in 2004 in McKinney, Texas (known for an abundance of Crape Myrtles), making its way across Texas and Louisiana by 2013, and eventually throughout the Southeast, the first case arriving in South Carolina in 2019.   It is treatable and typically won’t kill the tree but can affect blooming and the appearance of the trunks and branches of this beautiful species.   

A little science on how it all starts (from Clemson’s Home and Garden Fact Sheet)… “The small CMBS males are winged and will fly to find females and to mate. Once the mated females produce their ovisacs (egg-containing capsules) and lay eggs, they die. The eggs remain protected within the white colored ovisacs until the crawlers (immatures) hatch and disperse onto the branches. Each female lays about 60 to 250 eggs, which may over-winter within their ovisacs, and then hatch during mid- to late April to May. The crawlers are pink, very small, and may not be noticed without a hand lens. A second peak in crawler activity occurs in late summer. These mobile crawlers move out to new twigs and branches to settle down and begin feeding on the sugary phloem layer beneath the bark.”  As the insects feed, they excrete a sweet, sticky substance known as honeydew.  A black, sooty mold forms over the honeydew on stems, and trunks, (rarely on leaves), followed by white or gray specks.  Aphids and Mealy Bugs can also create similar white specks, so it’s a good idea to take a picture and seek assistance to correctly identify the problem. 

If this scale is identified, it is important to treat as soon as possible.  The sooty mold can be washed off by using warm soapy water in a sprayer.   In winter when temperatures remain cool, apply an oil-based insecticide, such as Neem Oil or Horticulture Oil, if you find evidence of CMBS.  This will smother many of the crawlers and adults.  Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the oil will kill them all, so be prepared in late March or early May, to treat with a systemic insecticide (treats the plant through the root system).  Wingard’s recommends Fertilome Tree & Shrub Drench, which offers 12-month control.   Preventive treatment is typically not necessary after application of the systemic insecticide, however the dead insects may remain on the tree.  Be sure to monitor other Crape Myrtle trees in the landscape, due to the invasive nature of CMBS. 

To improve the appearance of the infested tree and to minimize the treatment area, you may want to remove some affected limbs.  To avoid the spread of CMBS, do not put limbs in a compost pile or out on the curb for pick up, or even in an open truck.  Best practice is to double-bag and dispose of them along with your regular trash. 

For help identifying CMBS, contact Wingard’s or the Clemson Extension Service, 605 W. Main Street, Suite 109, Lexington, (803) 359-8515.   Rather than bringing a cutting into the garden center, please bring us a picture (close-up view) and we will be glad to provide assistance.

Don’t let the fear of CMBS deter you from planting one or more of the many beautiful varieties of Crape Myrtle.  Making a perfect anchor plant for the home or a focal point in a flower bed, this addition to the landscape will provide beautiful color in the summer and many varieties have great fall foliage color.  Just keep an eye on them and nip CMBS in the bud before it becomes a problem. 

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

If you have ever enjoyed a BLT with fresh tomatoes from your garden, you probably agree, it is good beyond words!  Although you can still buy vine ripe tomatoes in the grocery store throughout the year, it’s just not the same.  Unfortunately, it’s getting a little late for tomato plants, however there are other vegetable plants that can be started now that will give you fresh vegetables throughout fall and maybe even winter. Though cool-season crops continue to grow well past the earliest freeze in the fall, they should be started early enough to mature before hard freezes are expected. Some vegetables, like collards and parsnips, are known to have better flavor if grown in cooler weather.  December 21^st is the first day of Winter 2024, so you have plenty of time to get started if you get busy now. If you are interested in planting seeds, see the Clemson Home & Garden Fact Sheet (Click HERE) for guidelines on when to plant along with estimated days until harvest.

According to the Farmer’s Almanac, beets, cauliflower, celery, green onions, potatoes, Bibb and lettuce, mustard greens, parsnips, radishes, spinach and Swiss chard can survive light frosts in the 30-32° range and are considered “frost tolerant.”   “Frost hardy” vegetables that can survive temperatures as low as 20°, include cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, kale, leeks, rutabagas and turnips.  Because our Midlands temperatures are typically quite mild, your chances are good for a successful cool season garden.  It is important to keep an eye on the forecast, however, so you can cover plants that need protection, just in the event of a hard freeze, especially if it is expected to last several days.  Not likely, but it has happened!

The Almanac also provides the following guidelines for when to plant.  FYI… Predicted first frost for the Columbia area is November 1, but it could be much later than that:

• 10-12 weeks before first frost:  broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, celery.
• 8-10 weeks before first frost: arugula, Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips
• 6-8 weeks before first frost: beets, radishes

Like your spring garden, there are certain requirements for a cool weather vegetable garden:

• If you’re planting in the ground, test the soil through Clemson Extension Service (application available at Wingard’s). If you’re reading this on September 1, you don’t have time to wait for soil test results, so consider a raised bed garden to make sure of the best possible soil.  Fill the bed with Daddy Pete’s Raised Bed Mix.
• Plant in a location that receives a minimum of six hours of sun per day.
• If you’re planting in an area which contained your spring garden, add compost to enrich the existing soil.
• You won’t have to water as much in cooler weather, but it’s still necessary to have a nearby water source. Don’t let soil get too dry. 
• Have a beach umbrella ready, so if we have 90+ degree days you can shade your young seedling from the brutal summer sun.
• Fertilize with ferti-lome Gardener’s Special, according to directions on the back of the bag.

Try your luck with growing herbs in fall and winter.  Because the ground does not freeze, they will do ok, however, you’ll need to cover them during a frost or freeze.  Note: be sure to uncover during the day when the temperature rises.  Rosemary is the exception to the rule…it can survive year ‘round here. 

It’s also time for chrysanthemums, pansies and snapdragons.  Think about making your fall vegetable garden more attractive by adding a few fall annuals for color. 

Usually, pests and disease are minimal during cooler weather, but be on the lookout and treat as necessary if you encounter a problem.   A good product to use on Fall gardens to combat, insects, mites and fungus is ferti-lome Triple Action. It is not recommended in the summer because it is oil-based and can burn plants when the temperature is above 85 degrees.

Cool weather vegetable plants are arriving weekly at Wingard’s, so come in and make your selection. If you have any questions, talk with a helpful Wingard’s greenhouse staff member.  For additional information on fall vegetable gardening see this Clemson Home & Garden Fact Sheet, as well as other noted Fact Sheet links for specific vegetables HERE.

In summer, a BLT hits the spot.  In fall and winter, a salad made of fresh greens or a warm cup of broccoli and cheese soup creates equal satisfaction.  Enjoying your own, home-grown collards on New Year’s Day, well, that may just win the grand prize!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!