By Kathy Torres

While you still have a little time to prepare for the growing season ahead, it’s a good idea to create a plan for fertilizing your plants and to stock up on the supplies you need. The chores are numerous in the spring, so be ready when the conditions are right. By following an established schedule for fertilizing, you are providing the best care for your plants, giving them the nutrients needed to flourish, at a time that is most advantageous. When it comes to fertilizing, there’s not a “one size fits all” however, with a little guidance on products and proper application, you’ll see it’s not too complicated.

To start… it’s good to have a basic understanding of the science of fertilizers, and to know that all plants have different needs and all fertilizers are not the same. Available in synthetic and organic forms, most plant fertilizers are created to address those specific needs. A key message on the packaging or label of a fertilizer blend is the N-P-K content, which indicates the ratio of 3 critical nutrients by weight: (1) nitrogen, (2) phosphorus and (3) potassium (standardized in this order). These are necessary for healthy plants and not often available in sufficient quantities in the soil. Each has a particular effect:

• Nitrogen (N) is necessary for leaf health and makes plants greener.
• Phosphorous (P) promotes root growth and increases bloom and fruit production.
• Potassium (K) helps plants fight disease and remain vigorous in extreme temperatures. Note that potassium is usually provided in the form of potash, also known as K2O.

The N-P-K numbers represent the percentage of the weight of the bag that is attributable to each component. To understand what you’re getting in a bag of fertilizer, here’s a simple example: a 100-pound bag of 10-10-10 (basic, all-purpose) contains ten pounds each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. The rest is filler, which gives it bulk and makes it easier to spread. As you become familiar with different fertilizers, you will notice many specialized blends, such as 19-8-10, for plants needing more nitrogen, or 9-15-13, for plants needing more phosphorous. Because there is usually more potassium found naturally in the soil, it’s not likely to find an N-P-K with the highest number being potassium, however, more is typically needed.

Existing ornamental shrubs and trees in your landscape, whether evergreen or deciduous (drops leaves in fall/winter), should be fertilized in spring when new growth appears, usually in mid to late March. A late frost or freeze can throw things off by damaging the tender new growth, so if the forecast looks wintery, wait a bit longer to apply fertilizer. For most plants in this category, one spring application is sufficient, although some varieties are heavy feeders and require additional applications. If you have mature trees and shrubs, especially if they are grown in good soil, they may not need any fertilizer at all.

Timing and application varies for fertilizing these shrubs and trees:

Mark your calendar for February to fertilize roses (prune first) and pecan trees. This is the official starting point for the year. In Mid-March (temperatures permitting) it is time to get busy on ornamental shrubs and trees, then, as indicated above for the “special” ones. Be sure to mark the calendar for those plants that will need additional applications. These require a little extra and/or a blend that will meet specific needs, such as soil acidity.

Speaking of soil acidity, it’s a good idea every 3 or 4 years to have your soil tested so you will know the pH and if soil amendments are needed. Having proper pH can affect how well the plants will grow in the soil and will impact the effectiveness of fertilizers. Wingard’s can provide assistance in coordinating soil sampling and testing with Clemson Extension Service in Lexington. Just ask staff at the checkout for details.

Typically, fertilizer is applied at the dripline of a tree or shrub and care should be taken to avoid getting too close to the trunk(s). For more columnar or narrow plants, applying a little further out than the dripline is more desirable. For more information on this, as well as general information on fertilizing shrubs and trees, click HERE to access Clemson’s Fact Sheet on this topic.

It is not necessary to fertilize NEW plantings of shrubs and trees right away, however, Bio-Tone Starter (composed of micronutrients… bacteria, humates & mycorrhizae) is recommended to increase root mass and help avoid transplant loss. If you plant in the spring, wait 6-8 weeks to apply fertilizer; if you plant in the fall, wait until the following spring.

Annuals and Perennials add an abundance of color and interest in the landscape and are plentiful at Wingard’s in spring and summer. Because the growing period for these beauties is in the warm to extremely hot time of year, they need a bit more help to stay healthy and to put on their best show. Make sure you have good, rich potting soil and fertilize from time of planting throughout the season according to label directions. Choose a slow-release fertilizer that works for 3 or 6 months or a 30-day fertilizer. Add these fertilizers to the top of the soil after planting and gently work the granules into the top layer of the soil. For maximum results, add a water-soluble weekly fertilizer for a little extra boost. An IMPORTANT TIP (hinted at this earlier) for purchasing fertilizers for these big bloomers is to look for a high middle number in the N-P-K.

The folks at Wingard’s have put together a flyer with the timing guidelines mentioned above for applying fertilizer, along with product recommendations readily available in the garden center. Click HERE to access the flyer.

When using any fertilizer, ALWAYS…

• Read and follow instructions on the container or label.
• Avoid adding more than indicated or you may cause damage to the plant.
• Water-in fertilizer when applied, otherwise the plant(s) will not absorb it.
• Store in a protected area that will not get wet.

Margaret Atwood, a Canadian novelist and poet, has a quote that really sums it all up for me. “In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt!” Spring is just around the corner and I must admit, I am excited about getting my hands dirty, seeing the grass turn green, buds forming on my yellow rose bush, new growth flushing out of the ground that will host beautiful day lilies and bare hardwoods becoming bright green with new foliage. Yes, there is work that comes with it, like raking all the leaves out of the beds, picking up branches and sticks, and removing last year’s dead roots from all the pots. And then… fertilizing. Maintenance is not my favorite gardening task, but I know it is necessary to keep plants growing, thriving and looking good. In gardening, it is pretty much ongoing. After everything is planted and fertilized, there is watering, deadheading, looking out for pests, and weeding. But, between the chores are the moments when the sun is shining and the temperature is getting warmer, birds are singing and rushing to and from the feeders, the buds are opening for bright, colorful blooms, and the joy of the garden is upon you. Happy spring…Enjoy!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

We live in a world today in which dietary supplements are numerous and often it can be confusing as to which are truly valuable to overall health. If you’re like me, you grew up with the understanding that adding a multi-vitamin to your daily food intake was a good way to “fill in the gap” on what you may have missed. And… other than a little extra Vitamin C when you had a cold, you were good to go. That is, if what existed in your 3- meals-a-day diet was from the infamous food pyramid. Man, how things have changed!

The focus on nutrition and health today is constantly evolving, resulting in many benefits to modern health, while encouraging us to seriously consider what we are putting in our bodies, however, it can be overwhelming trying to figure it all out! There are multitudes of available supplements for our daily food intake that have led to another avenue of improving overall health, sometimes even providing solutions to health issues that might have warranted prescription drugs. A return to natural remedies (as in those days before mega-pharmaceutical companies) is popular and proving to be very effective.

Elderberry, Simbucus canadensis, is a multi-stemmed shrub or small tree (grows in zones 3-9), producing white flowers and black berries. It has a long history of medicinal use by virtually all human cultures for centuries, “Plants were probably deposited in Europe, Asia, and North America by retreating glaciers by 9,000 B.C.E. Seeds from Elderberry found in Neolithic pole-dwellings in Switzerland suggest that the plant was in cultivation by about 2000 B.C.E.” Note: B.C.E. = B.C. “Historically, Elderberry was known as the medicine chest of the country people and was used to cure just about anything. Elderflower water was applied to the skin to remove freckles and keep the complexion fair. The Romans created a hair dye made from the dark juice of the berries.” Click on this link History Herb Society for more information on this plant.

The Elderberry tonics and syrups began to appear in stores in recent years due to effectiveness in reducing cold and flu symptoms and was often used during the Covid-19 pandemic. While more scientific research is needed, some of the health issues, in addition to upper respiratory ailments, that may potentially be affected by Elderberry are:

• Immune System
• Heart Health
• Chronic Fatigue Syndrome
• Digestive Health
• Weight Management
• Metabolic Health
• Urination
• Headaches
• Sinus Infections

Right now, you might be thinking… what’s in this tonic? The medicinal properties of Elderberries are reportedly attributable mostly to their high content of flavonoids, micronutrients with antioxidant properties found naturally in plants. Antioxidants destroy unstable molecules called “free radicals” that can damage cells. Fruits with red, purple, blue or black hues tend to be rich in flavonoids/antioxidants. Elderberry is also full of Vitamin C and fiber. The health effects of these nutrients include cardiovascular, neurodegenerative and inflammatory disorders, as well as anti-diabetic, anti-cancer, anti-viral, and immune-stimulatory. This information was gathered from a report by the National Institutes of Health, National Library of Medicine. See link NIH Report #1.

We started carrying Elderberry Tonic in the Wingard’s Produce Market a few years before the pandemic and have added to the product line since then. Elderberry is now available in many forms in addition to the original tonics and syrups. Local pharmacies and grocery stores, as well as vitamin stores offer tablets, capsules and gummies. Teas may also be found if you prefer.

The NIH confirms that studies have supported the antiviral properties of Elderberry fruit, making it necessary to further study other properties. “Considering the growing fashion for natural, organic and health-promoting food, it can be concluded that Elderberry as a natural component of food products fits perfectly into this trend and has a good chance to increase its role as a beneficial component of a healthy diet.” See link NIH Report #2.

Despite the many positive effects of elderberry, it may not be for everyone. Always discuss with your physician and pharmacist before adding supplements to your diet, especially if you are pregnant, nursing, or taking prescription medications and/or other supplements.

Every part of the elderberry plant contains cyanogenic glycosides, a substance that releases cyanide. Ingestion of uncooked berries or other parts of the plant can cause dangerous levels of cyanide to build up within the body. While the flowers contain slightly less of this element, the stems, leaves and bark of the elderberry plant are particularly dangerous and should never be consumed uncooked, especially by small children. Additional details on precautions and possible drug interactions may be found at this link MOUNT SINAI.

We are learning more and more every day about taking care of our bodies by eating healthy foods. The rewards and benefits from plant-based foods versus the harmful effects of many processed foods are well-known and we are encouraged by doctors and nutritionists to increase our intake of fruits and vegetables. When we are not as likely to do that, natural supplements may be something to consider. These substances have survived the test of time, so maybe we can take advantage of the wisdom of past civilizations to improve our health and ability to fight illness. We desire and deserve a long, healthy life, don’t you think? Let’s do everything WE can to make it happen!

We hope you’ll visit Wingard’s Produce Market and check out Elderberry and other natural dietary supplement products offered for you and your family.

Additional Links:

Elderberry & Weight Management WSU

NIH Report – Elderberry Usefulness & Safety

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

The impressionists were masters of color and very clever in how they used contrasting colors to create stunning visual effects.  Take a look (left) at Vincent’s Bedroom in Arles, 1889 by Vincent Van Gogh.  As a general rule, contrasting colors are directly across from each other on the color wheel.  Note the very intense red of the bedsheet which compliments the dull green of the floor and the intense orange of the bed frame which stands out against the weaker blue of the walls and door.

Interior décor is absolutely a result of the designer or owner’s personal taste in terms of color, however, to achieve interest, balance, warmth, drama, etc., using complimentary color combinations or various tones of the same basic color are necessary to create a visual that is pleasing to the eye.  Typically, contrast or complimentary colors come into play through wall and trim colors, or accompanying linens, accent pieces and art.   

Think of your landscape as a piece or art or décor.  With the same idea of adding color or contrasting tones with a combination of shrubs, trees, perennials and annuals, the result can greatly enhance your landscape and the basic curb appeal of your home!  It’s easy to get stuck in an “all green” landscape plan when installing foundation plants or establishing garden beds, and while the plants may be lovely, the total picture just doesn’t POP.   The view of your yard can be more lush and beautiful by adding evergreen trees and shrubs with varying foliage colors, as well as annuals and perennials with striking bloom color combinations.  Using contrasting color in your shrubs and trees will provide interest even in winter months when flowering annuals and perennials are dormant.

Luckly, there are a number of evergreen trees and shrubs that fit the bill.  The best way to decide on plants to add contrast is to stroll through the nursery and look for any that are not  green!  Believe it or not, simply adding a different shade of green as an accent will do the trick, but you may prefer chartreuse or burgundy foliage.   Here are a few varieties that can complement those solid green shrubs:  

Angelica Blue Juniper
Densely branched, wide-spreading shrub with a mature size of 6-10 ft W x 5-6 ft T.  This variety is one of the low growing junipers admired for its bright blue-green needle foliage.  Its branches are more arching than creeping.   Plant in full sun to part shade.

Carolina Sapphire Cypress
Cypress trees are evergreen, with scales instead of leaves. Developed by Clemson University and the South Carolina Forestry Commission, the Carolina Sapphire is a silver-blue, fast-growing, pyramid-shaped tree with an airy, loose branch structure.  Great for privacy screening or a focal point in the landscape.  Tiny pinecones and yellow blooms appear in late fall; cut branches make nice holiday wreaths.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Radiance Abelia
This variegated Abelia will reach 3-4 ft Tall x 4-5 ft Wide, with a weeping growth habit.  Fairly fast growing with small, delicate white blooms in late summer.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Kaleidoscope Abelia
Another variety of Abelia, Kaleidoscope’s growth rate and mature size are about the same as Radiance.  The foliage offers more variegated pink and yellow hues with the same small white blooms in late summer.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Loropetalum
Loropetalum is a popular evergreen that is available in many varieties with mature sizes in the small, medium and large categories.  Foliage is burgundy; some varieties are more red and some are more purple.  Pink fringe-type blooms appear in spring and often repeat (not quite as profusely) in fall.  Some pruning is needed to keep them in a round shape, however selecting the appropriate variety, keeping in mind the mature size, can help keep pruning to a minimum.  Notice in this photo, the nice contrast next to the variegated pittosporum.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Mojo Dwarf Pittosporum
This tough, compact, evergreen shrub brightens the garden with beautiful splashes of creamy white on the edges of its shiny green leaves. Small, white fragrant flowers bloom in spring.  Mature size is 3 ft T x 3 ft W.   Does not like wet feet, so make sure it dries out between waterings and don’t plant in an area that stays damp.  Standard Variegated Pittosporum is also available if you need a larger shrub, 6-8 ft T x 6-8 ft W.  Plant in part shade.

Dwarf Nandina AKA Heavenly Bamboo is evergreen and great for grouping in plant beds.  This small, airy shrub is very low maintenance with very little pruning needed.  Popular varieties offer colorful foliage in reds, pinks or lime green.  Plant in full sun to part shade.

Cryptomeria ‘Globosa Nana’ AKA Japanese Cedar
Japanese cedar is a woody, needled evergreen in the Cypress family.  An extremely old cultivar, the dwarf dome form of ‘Globosa Nana’ is grown for its attractive foliage.  Its bluish-green needles become rusty-red during the winter months, making this specimen a great addition to your winter garden.   Low maintenance, little if any pruning needed.  Plant in full sun.

Sunshine Ligustrum is a non-invasive member of the Privet family.  Appropriately named, you will love the lime green to bright yellow foliage of this evergreen shrub.  Definitely makes a statement in groupings or planted next to green or burgundy shrubs.  Mature size is 3-6 ft T x 3-4 ft W.  Plant in full sun to achieve the brightest foliage color.

Another possibility for adding contrasting color AND texture/shape is by adding grasses.  Most are perennial, however there are a few types that last through the winter.   On your next visit to Wingard’s, ask about Lomandra Breeze and Carex grasses.  Most grasses prefer sun, however, Carex grass can take some shade.

So… channel your inner artist or designer and come up with a plan to enhance the color in your landscape, OR consider Wingard’s Landscape Design Program (CLICK HERE) to help you along.  Adding contrast can make a major difference in the “Big Picture” of your landscape.  Think about the plants above and don’t forget about colorful annuals like pansies and snap dragons, planted in a flower bed or decorative pottery.   These are plentiful at Wingard’s and NOW is the time to plant them.  Spring and summer aren’t the only seasons to enjoy color and contrast in the landscape.  By “tweaking” things a bit, you can provide beautiful contrast that will last all year long!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

A problem that is becoming more prevalent in South Carolina, affecting one of the most popular ornamental trees grown in our region, is Crape Myrtle Bark Scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae).  Scale is an insect, however the infestation results in sooty mold, which is a disease.  This combination can drastically affect the appearance and health of the tree.  CMBS was initially sighted in 2004 in McKinney, Texas (known for an abundance of Crape Myrtles), making its way across Texas and Louisiana by 2013, and eventually throughout the Southeast, the first case arriving in South Carolina in 2019.   It is treatable and typically won’t kill the tree but can affect blooming and the appearance of the trunks and branches of this beautiful species.   

A little science on how it all starts (from Clemson’s Home and Garden Fact Sheet)… “The small CMBS males are winged and will fly to find females and to mate. Once the mated females produce their ovisacs (egg-containing capsules) and lay eggs, they die. The eggs remain protected within the white colored ovisacs until the crawlers (immatures) hatch and disperse onto the branches. Each female lays about 60 to 250 eggs, which may over-winter within their ovisacs, and then hatch during mid- to late April to May. The crawlers are pink, very small, and may not be noticed without a hand lens. A second peak in crawler activity occurs in late summer. These mobile crawlers move out to new twigs and branches to settle down and begin feeding on the sugary phloem layer beneath the bark.”  As the insects feed, they excrete a sweet, sticky substance known as honeydew.  A black, sooty mold forms over the honeydew on stems, and trunks, (rarely on leaves), followed by white or gray specks.  Aphids and Mealy Bugs can also create similar white specks, so it’s a good idea to take a picture and seek assistance to correctly identify the problem. 

If this scale is identified, it is important to treat as soon as possible.  The sooty mold can be washed off by using warm soapy water in a sprayer.   In winter when temperatures remain cool, apply an oil-based insecticide, such as Neem Oil or Horticulture Oil, if you find evidence of CMBS.  This will smother many of the crawlers and adults.  Unfortunately, it is unlikely that the oil will kill them all, so be prepared in late March or early May, to treat with a systemic insecticide (treats the plant through the root system).  Wingard’s recommends Fertilome Tree & Shrub Drench, which offers 12-month control.   Preventive treatment is typically not necessary after application of the systemic insecticide, however the dead insects may remain on the tree.  Be sure to monitor other Crape Myrtle trees in the landscape, due to the invasive nature of CMBS. 

To improve the appearance of the infested tree and to minimize the treatment area, you may want to remove some affected limbs.  To avoid the spread of CMBS, do not put limbs in a compost pile or out on the curb for pick up, or even in an open truck.  Best practice is to double-bag and dispose of them along with your regular trash. 

For help identifying CMBS, contact Wingard’s or the Clemson Extension Service, 605 W. Main Street, Suite 109, Lexington, (803) 359-8515.   Rather than bringing a cutting into the garden center, please bring us a picture (close-up view) and we will be glad to provide assistance.

Don’t let the fear of CMBS deter you from planting one or more of the many beautiful varieties of Crape Myrtle.  Making a perfect anchor plant for the home or a focal point in a flower bed, this addition to the landscape will provide beautiful color in the summer and many varieties have great fall foliage color.  Just keep an eye on them and nip CMBS in the bud before it becomes a problem. 

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

If you have ever enjoyed a BLT with fresh tomatoes from your garden, you probably agree, it is good beyond words!  Although you can still buy vine ripe tomatoes in the grocery store throughout the year, it’s just not the same.  Unfortunately, it’s getting a little late for tomato plants, however there are other vegetable plants that can be started now that will give you fresh vegetables throughout fall and maybe even winter. Though cool-season crops continue to grow well past the earliest freeze in the fall, they should be started early enough to mature before hard freezes are expected. Some vegetables, like collards and parsnips, are known to have better flavor if grown in cooler weather.  December 21^st is the first day of Winter 2024, so you have plenty of time to get started if you get busy now. If you are interested in planting seeds, see the Clemson Home & Garden Fact Sheet (Click HERE) for guidelines on when to plant along with estimated days until harvest.

According to the Farmer’s Almanac, beets, cauliflower, celery, green onions, potatoes, Bibb and lettuce, mustard greens, parsnips, radishes, spinach and Swiss chard can survive light frosts in the 30-32° range and are considered “frost tolerant.”   “Frost hardy” vegetables that can survive temperatures as low as 20°, include cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, kale, leeks, rutabagas and turnips.  Because our Midlands temperatures are typically quite mild, your chances are good for a successful cool season garden.  It is important to keep an eye on the forecast, however, so you can cover plants that need protection, just in the event of a hard freeze, especially if it is expected to last several days.  Not likely, but it has happened!

The Almanac also provides the following guidelines for when to plant.  FYI… Predicted first frost for the Columbia area is November 1, but it could be much later than that:

• 10-12 weeks before first frost:  broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, celery.
• 8-10 weeks before first frost: arugula, Chinese cabbage, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, Swiss chard, turnips
• 6-8 weeks before first frost: beets, radishes

Like your spring garden, there are certain requirements for a cool weather vegetable garden:

• If you’re planting in the ground, test the soil through Clemson Extension Service (application available at Wingard’s). If you’re reading this on September 1, you don’t have time to wait for soil test results, so consider a raised bed garden to make sure of the best possible soil.  Fill the bed with Daddy Pete’s Raised Bed Mix.
• Plant in a location that receives a minimum of six hours of sun per day.
• If you’re planting in an area which contained your spring garden, add compost to enrich the existing soil.
• You won’t have to water as much in cooler weather, but it’s still necessary to have a nearby water source. Don’t let soil get too dry. 
• Have a beach umbrella ready, so if we have 90+ degree days you can shade your young seedling from the brutal summer sun.
• Fertilize with ferti-lome Gardener’s Special, according to directions on the back of the bag.

Try your luck with growing herbs in fall and winter.  Because the ground does not freeze, they will do ok, however, you’ll need to cover them during a frost or freeze.  Note: be sure to uncover during the day when the temperature rises.  Rosemary is the exception to the rule…it can survive year ‘round here. 

It’s also time for chrysanthemums, pansies and snapdragons.  Think about making your fall vegetable garden more attractive by adding a few fall annuals for color. 

Usually, pests and disease are minimal during cooler weather, but be on the lookout and treat as necessary if you encounter a problem.   A good product to use on Fall gardens to combat, insects, mites and fungus is ferti-lome Triple Action. It is not recommended in the summer because it is oil-based and can burn plants when the temperature is above 85 degrees.

Cool weather vegetable plants are arriving weekly at Wingard’s, so come in and make your selection. If you have any questions, talk with a helpful Wingard’s greenhouse staff member.  For additional information on fall vegetable gardening see this Clemson Home & Garden Fact Sheet, as well as other noted Fact Sheet links for specific vegetables HERE.

In summer, a BLT hits the spot.  In fall and winter, a salad made of fresh greens or a warm cup of broccoli and cheese soup creates equal satisfaction.  Enjoying your own, home-grown collards on New Year’s Day, well, that may just win the grand prize!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

You may have the best neighbors in the world, but when you are relaxing in your backyard by the pool, having an outdoor meal with your family, or just reading a book and watching the birds come and go from the feeder, it’s really nice to enjoy a little privacy. And maybe you don’t have great neighbors…. even more reason to create a way to ensure that privacy, or to put it in simple terms, a way to HIDE from them! HIDE being the critical word, there may also be a structure that is not exactly attractive, for example… a dog pen, storage shed or wood pile. Installation of screen plants can improve this situation as well. Fencing is an option, although it can be expensive and, if constructed of wood, will need to be painted or stained. You’ll likely want to plant shrubs to “soften” the look of the fence, so, why not just use screen plants instead to create a beautiful, natural separation between you and your neighbors or that unsightly structure. More esthetically pleasing, a natural screen will contribute to a more peaceful environment, requiring much less (if any) maintenance.

There are a few attributes of screen plants that are desirable:

1. Evergreen: Typically, evergreen shrubs/trees make the most sense in creating a screen. Due to their year’ round foliage, it’s difficult to see through them. There is an alternative, if you have the space, to plant something deciduous (leaves fall) along with an evergreen shrub. One can provide the screen and the other can add interest or contrast.
2. Medium to Fast-Growing: It seems that most garden center shoppers these days aren’t willing to wait years and years for shrubs and trees to mature, and are looking for fast-growing specimens. This is especially true for folks looking to create a screen. Some of the plants we recommend will grow about 3 feet a year, so if you are really in a hurry, plant fast-growing shrubs or trees. Regardless, it’s going to take a few years to establish them and to have the screening results you desire.
3. Mature Height and Width of Plants: Determine what your height and width requirement is when choosing screening shrubs or trees. Don’t set yourself up for constant pruning by selecting plants that will grow to a larger size than anticipated. Pay careful attention to the MATURE HEIGHT AND WIDTH. Also recognize the fact that any plant can grow a little more or less tall and/or wide depending on how happy it is in the environment due to soil quality, sun, drainage, wind, etc.

While 8-10 ft. is an average height for most privacy screening, 12-18 ft. or even higher (30-40 ft.) is attainable with several varieties and may be appropriate depending on the landscape. In a subdivision with ¼ acre lots, it’s unlikely that 30-foot Carolina Sapphire can be installed along the property line, however, it would work beautifully on a larger lot on the lake or in a more rural area. Note: A trick to raise the elevation of your plant screen is to build up the soil or “berm” the planting area. In areas of dense clay, this will also improve the ability of plants to establish a good root system.

Spacing, in terms of width and depth of the area in which you are planting, may limit the plants you select to more narrow species. Some specimens can adapt to being planted closer together, but some may develop fungus if the foliage becomes too dense, prohibiting air flow and light. It may take longer for the space to fill in, but adhering to spacing recommendations may keep the plants healthier.

When considering a natural screen, it’s all about your vision for the area and the space you have available. Decide whether you prefer a continuous hedge of the same species, or a combination of different varieties. Keep in mind that a hedge can be natural or pruned. If you’re going for the “English Garden” look, feel free to prune to a box shape. Planting a combination of different specimens will create a more natural look and pruning should not be necessary, as long as plants do not crowd each other when full-grown. Again… It is critical to be aware of the mature height and width of every shrub or tree in your plan. Whether you choose a hedge or a combination of different plants, it’s simply a matter of preference.

Just so you know… Combination or mixed screens provide all the functional aspects necessary, but in addition provide biodiversity to the landscape resulting in benefits to plant health and longevity. You may be aware of the problems years ago that developed with the Red Tip or Fraser photinia and more recently, the Leyland cypress, both over-planted in hedges and natural screening. Over-planting, especially when planting a continuous line, creates an ideal environment for the spread of fungus from one plant to the next. Here are examples of mixed screen planting in case you’re just not convinced of their beauty and function. There may be a plant or two pictured that we don’t typically grow here, but something similar can be substituted. Also, keep in mind, that SOME repetition is ok in a mixed grouping to provide a bit of symmetry.

The amount of sun received in the area where you will be planting is ALWAYS an important factor in the plant selection process. Most all screen plants we recommend need at least 6 or more hours of full sun, and many of them will actually thrive in all day sun. There are not as many choices for shade, but several excellent specimens are available.

The following shrubs and trees are in stock at Wingard’s right now and are recommended for natural screening:

* Also good in shade    ~ Fast-growing

Making a home comfortable and private is, I believe, a goal most of us share. Our yard should be an extension of that desire, creating a place to be alone or to spend time with family, friends and don’t forget the 4-legged family members. Framing a home with foundation plants, annuals and perennials softens the “hardness” of the building, making it more appealing and beautiful. Natural screening is a great way to add separation and privacy in the same way. Consider visiting Wingard’s and ask our staff to discuss a plan for your landscape.

Of course, this writer would NEVER suggest that GOOD NEIGHBORS should not be appreciated! When you have them, often they become part of your “extended” family. So don’t completely hide from your (good) neighbors! Enjoy your private time but share the tomatoes you are growing in your garden or cut a few flowers from your Hydrangea this summer and be a good neighbor yourself. That goodness will come back to you!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

The next time you walk into the Produce Market and Backyard Nature Center at Wingard’s Market, look to the right of the building and you will see a small area that has been planted with various perennials to create a lovely mini garden. We started building this garden about 10 years ago to serve as an example for customers interested in attracting hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Black Eyed Susan, Cone Flower, Spiderwort, Bee Balm, Aster, and Coreopsis are among the plants living there. New growth is peeking up through the ground already, and this perennial garden will be alive with colorful blooms, nature’s “vacancy” sign to alert pollinators and wildlife that rooms are available in this garden resort. Because different perennial plants bloom at different times during the growing season, there will be a continuous color pallet present throughout spring and summer.

Another way to create a similar garden or “mini meadow” in your own landscape is made possible by a new product line available this spring at Wingard’s. We are proud to introduce Earth Science Growth Essentials, including seed, fertilizer, soil conditioner, and mulch, giving you everything you need and an EASY way to do it! Before we get into the types of seed combinations available, it’s important to note the value of having a mini meadow. The word “meadow” suggests a large field in a rural area with miles of wildflowers and grasses, however, it’s actually possible to create the same effect in a much smaller space, as little as 50 square feet, thus… a “mini meadow.” Perfect for a small space in your landscape, a square foot garden or even a window box, this type of planting brings a wide-open-spaces feel to a smaller area. Typically plant mixes will include annuals, perennials and wildflowers that are native to our region, therefore, more hardy and easy to maintain. Last, but most important, the ecological advantage resulting from meadow type planting is the payoff, for example:

(1) Pollinators, like bees and butterflies, are attracted, will feed and nest in a mini meadow (it is a fact that the overall number of pollinators is falling due to pesticides, pollutants and loss of habitat, so every mini meadow offsets some of that loss).

(2) Hummingbirds and other birds find food andshelter, and some species (ground nesters) will find a place for nesting. In fall and winter, seed pods may be useful as a food source when food is scarce.

(3) Many beneficial insects are attracted, as well as frogs, lizards and other wildlife.

(4) Local biodiversity results from the combination of all the “creatures” attracted to a mini meadow habitat.

(5) Less water is often needed because native wildflowers are adapted to local conditions.

(6) Wildflowers enhance soil health by promoting microbial activity and preventing erosion.

Earth Science Mini Meadow Mixes provide a blend of seeds intended to create beautiful, ecologically beneficial meadows, which include a variety of native and non-invasive flowering plants. Several types of mixes are available, providing an economical alternative for a wildflower garden. Make it easy with this all-in-one formula that contains natural wildflower seed, mulch, plant food and soil conditioners. Choose from the following collections:

The Pollinator Mix: includes Annual Candytuft, Siberian Wallflower, Zinnia, Purple Coneflower, Rocket Larkspur and Lacy Phacelia.

The Perennial Mix: assortment of Siberian Wallflower, Lance Leaved Coreopsis, Sweet William Pinks, Blue Flax, Dwarf Columbine, Shasta Daisy, Purple Coneflower, Blanketflower, Mexican Hat, and Black-Eyed Susan Fringed Pink.

Butterfly & Hummingbird Mix: includes Zinnia, Cosmos, Shasta Daisy, Sweet William and Black-Eyed Susan.

Shady Mix: blend of 11 wildflower species, including Annual Baby’s Breath, Annual Candytuft, Purple Coneflower, Corn Poppy and Johnny Jump-Up.

Deer & Rabbit Resistant Mix: assortment of 10 flower and herb varieties known to be resistant to damage by deer and rabbits, including Shasta Daisy, Perennial Lupine, Black-Eyed Susan and Gold Yarrow.

Bouquet Mix: blend of 9 wildflower species, including Cosmos, Rocket Larkspur, Zinnia, and Shasta Daisy.

Zinnia Mix: features colorful Zinnia’s in shades of orange, pink, purple, red, white and yellow. (Non-native, but butterflies love them!)

With the exception of the Shady Mix, all of these wildflower mixes should be spread in an area that receives at least 6 hours of direct sun. Follow these instructions:

• Rake area to remove dead grass and debris. Seeds grow best when they have direct contact with the soil.
• Uniformly apply flower mix so the area is mostly covered, but bare ground is still visible.
• Water daily or as needed to keep the soil surface and flower seed moist for the first 2 weeks. This is critical for flower seed to germinate and thrive. When enough water has been applied, Earth Science’s patented Water Right Crystals will expand and sparkle. When the crystals disappear it’s time to water again.

If you can’t get to the countryside where the meadows stretch out along the highway, don’t worry, plant a mini meadow right at home where you can walk out of the door and enjoy the simple beauty of wildflowers. Fill a vase with cuttings and feel a bit of pride that you’re also improving the environment on good old planet Earth.

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

What? How can a plant live without soil? Beneath the tree canopies in their native habitats across Central and South America, Mexico and the southern United States, Air Plants can be found growing on branches, rocks or other surfaces, thriving in the humidity and filtered sunlight. They typically have strap-like leaves growing in a rosette pattern with new growth emerging from the plant’s center. The foliage color may vary, from silver or green or even red, and it can be spiky or fuzzy. Some produce flowers in shades of red, pink or purple that last from a few days to a few months. Most air plants range from 2″ to 12″ tall.

Not to be confused with a parasite that can cause harm to its host, an Air Plant is considered an “epiphyte” using Greek terminology, for growing on top of a plant (epi = on top of; phyte = plant), gathering its nutrients from the air, water and debris, rather than soil. The roots attach without damage to the host plant. These unique, low maintenance beauties have become quite popular in recent years, making an attractive and interesting display, mounted (with fishing line) to a piece of driftwood, sitting or hanging in a clear glass bulb or other decorative container, or grouped together in a saucer or bowl as a centerpiece. Although it seems like an enclosed terrarium would be a good home, it’s likely the environment would be too wet, so don’t go there. As indicated earlier, soil is not necessary, so DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PLANT AIR PLANTS IN DIRT!

There are hundreds of species and varieties of Air Plants, crossing many plant families. FYI… Spanish Moss and Staghorn Fern are actually Air Plants. The most common classification typically available in garden centers is Tillandsia, from the Bromeliad family. These are perfect for indoors or outdoors (except during winter). Here are a few currently in stock at Wingard’s.

Requirements for Tillandsia
Requirements for Tillandsia are pretty simple… they like humidity, bright indirect light, regular watering and a little bit of fertilizer. There are a few mistakes that can be made, so here are the guidelines for success:

• Humidity – For placement indoors, select a spot in a kitchen, bathroom or laundry room, where the air is more humid. Avoid dry areas of the home and don’t put them near a heater or air conditioner vent. Air Plants prefer warm temperatures, however, they will do just fine in typical indoor temperatures (68 – 72 degrees). Keep them outside throughout the year, except during winter. They will love the hot, humid summer weather!
• Light – Air Plants need bright, indirect light, so it can be tricky to find a good spot to display them. The best place is a room with lots of windows, as long as the sun’s rays don’t shine directly on the plant(s). You can also use artificial grow lights or fluorescent lighting if you don’t have a great window option. Outdoors, try to place them in an area that is similar to their natural habitat, where they will receive indirect sunlight that is filtered through the trees. A bright porch that receives indirect sunlight is perfect. There are a few types of Air Plants that can thrive in shade, but most prefer light. Browning will occur and they will become “crispy critters” in the full sun. Even a little direct sun in the summertime here, will be too much.
• Water – Regular watering is critical, but it doesn’t take much. There are a couple of ways you can water Air Plants. Lightly mist 2 or 3 times a week, or dunk them for 20-30 minutes in a bowl of water once a week. If dunking, place the plant upside down on a paper towel afterwards to dry excess water. Too much water will cause rotting. If the plant feels “mushy” you have over-watered. If the tips turn brown, you may not be watering enough. Cut off the tips and alter your watering schedule. NOTE: Use rainwater or bottled drinking water for Air Plants. The salt in softened water will burn the air plants and tap water has minerals that can keep them from absorbing nutrients.
• Fertilizer – It’s not absolutely necessary to fertilize Air Plants, but if you want them to flourish (and bloom) add a bit of water soluble fertilizer in the mist or the water soak about once a month. Use a fertilizer for bromeliads and follow the directions.

One of the best characteristics of the Air Plant is the “mother” plant will produce “pups” if the plant is thriving. You know if this happens, you are doing everything right! The pups can be left alone or transplanted to form a new plant. To transplant, wait until the pup is about 1/3 the size of the mama. Just pinch and wiggle the pup to remove it. If it’s stubborn and does not release, simply take a small, alcohol-sanitized clipper and cut it out. The other revelation that the plant is healthy and thriving is a bloom. Blooms may appear in many bright, tropical colors, depending on the variety of Air Plant. Unfortunately, the plant from which the bloom appeared will die soon after. This is one good reason to leave the pups where they appear, to keep growth ongoing.

It’s too early to start planting in the yard, but it’s always a good time for a house plant (you can move it outside if you like when the weather warms up). Stop by Wingard’s and take a look at the latest shipment of Air Plants. Talk to Heidi in the Greenhouse if you need assistance in making your selection. For ideas on how to display these guys, check out this link AIR PLANT IDEAS. I think you will be surprised by what you can do with them, and how interesting, different and easy they can be.

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

There’s no doubt that winter is the dark, dreary and often rainy season of the year. I would throw in “cold” but as I’m writing this, the temperatures this week have been in the 70’s! Never put your T-shirts away when you live in South Carolina. In spite of the on-again off-again spring-like weather, keep in mind the “dark and dreary” days typical for winter in order to provide the appropriate backdrop for this blog. Yes, here we are in winter. Even the most devoted gardeners are probably not yet thinking of spring and the implications of fresh potting soil, new shrub selections for the landscape, and colorful annuals and perennials. We still have a few weeks to go (March 19 is the first day of spring, 2024), so the satisfaction and enjoyment of the garden must come from what is already there. Wouldn’t it be great to see something blooming?

It just so happens there are a few plant specimens that provide beautiful blooms during the winter months. When many branches are bare and the colors of green, brown and gray monopolize the view from your porch or window, anything that blooms is truly a light in the darkness! I’d like to tell you about some of my favorite winter blooming plants and encourage you to consider finding a spot in your yard to plant one or two (or more), so you can experience their color during a time when it is much needed! All of these plants prefer or require afternoon shade or filtered sun all day. Remember that your shade areas shift from winter to summer, so be aware that the shade requirements are particularly important to protect your plants from the hot summer sun.

LENTEN ROSE

“A rose is a rose is a rose” (Gertrude Stein, 1913) – except when it’s not! Case in point, the Lenten Rose, AKA Hellebore, from the Ranunculaceae family. Not in the rose family at all, this lovely evergreen produces beautiful, unique blooms during the season of Lent (February/March), lasting until summer. Numerous hybrid varieties are available in a wide selection of bloom colors. The average plant size is about 18-24 inches at maturity, including the stalks and flowers, but there are a few taller varieties. During the first couple of years, the plant concentrates on root development, and then it takes off, producing a thick clump. Lenten Rose prefers shade, but can handle a bit of sun (morning, not afternoon) and just a little trimming of older foliage and spent blooms is necessary to keep it looking fresh. Fertilize new plantings to give them a good start, and once established, it’s not absolutely necessary. Water regularly until established, and during summertime dry periods. Don’t overwater, especially if planting in clay soil. Lenten Rose is great for mass planting, “filler” between small shrubs or annuals/perennials in a shade bed, or for cutting and filling a vase. It will give you a colorful surprise during the Lenten season, a sign that Easter and spring are coming soon.

MAHONIA

It’s easy to mistake some Mahonia for Hollies because of the prickly foliage, however, Mahonia is actually a member of the Barberry family. Winter Sun Mahonia shines in the winter with bright, golden yellow flower spikes against the dark green foliage. Reaching a height of 6-8 feet, this slow-growing, majestic evergreen shrub is perfect as a focal point in a shady garden bed. Blue berries appearing in spring attract a variety of birds. Mahonia is not too particular about soil, as long as it is well-drained, and it can hold its own in periods of drought. Another advantage is the toothy foliage, which is likely to discourage deer. Let it grow naturally as a large shrub or prune it into a tree shape. The ‘Winter Sun’ Mahonia pictured below (from my back yard) has bloomed beautifully this year!

If you’re interested in a smaller variety, check out ‘Soft Caress’ Mahonia. It has a different leaf, narrow and long, like fingers and they are smooth, not prickly. Mature height is only 2-3 feet tall. The other characteristics are basically the same… shade loving, slow growth rate, not too picky about soil, drought tolerant, blooms and berries.

WINTER DAPHNE

Known for very fragrant blooms, Winter Daphne joins the group of winter-blooming shrubs. Mature size is about 4 feet tall with a width of 5-6 feet, but it will take a few years to get this big. It has a reputation for being difficult to grow, however, by planting it correctly you can avoid the most common problems. The plant requires afternoon shade or filtered sun all day. Don’t plant in clay soil without amending it with loose, porous soil and organic matter. Plant so that the top of the root ball is a few inches above soil level and mulch around it. Water once a week during periods of drought but be careful not to overwater. There are two different distinctions in most Winter Daphne types available: variegated or solid green leaves and pink or white blooms. Some may be more fragrant than others. Also deer resistant, this is a great addition to your landscape, most appreciated in winter.

EDGEWORTHIA

Another focal point contender is Edgeworthia, AKA Paperbush. A notable characteristic of this plant is that it blooms on bare branches in the winter months, after the large, elongated leaves drop in fall. Also “note” worthy… the common name, Paperbush, comes from its use in Japan for producing banknotes. Edgeworthia has a tropical look in summer and gorgeous blooms in winter. It can grow up to 7 feet tall and wide, prefers a shady location, and has a moderate to fast growth rate. Clusters of fragrant, yellow blooms appear on the branches, usually beginning in December. For Edgeworthia to thrive, it’s a good idea to add organic matter to the existing soil to make sure it is rich in nutrients.

CAMELLIA

As I’ve mentioned in a previous blog post on Camellias (Click HERE), there are two types. Camellia sasanqua blooms in fall (October to December) and Camellia japonica blooms in winter (December to March). In my mind, every southern landscape should have a Camellia. They love the climate and are beautiful, traditional, southern ornamental shrubs. Most Camellia japonica shrubs grow 8-10 feet tall, however, there are some varieties that are smaller. They prefer shade, but a little filtered sun or direct early morning sun is ok and will encourage blooming. The large leaves are waxy and deep green. Fairly slow growing, Camellia japonica will take a while to reach its mature size, but at any stage should produce plenty of blooms. There are a few diseases that can be a problem with Camellias; keep an eye out for spots on foliage or browning of buds, and spray with a fungicide per the directions on the container. Mature Camellias are drought tolerant once established, but water and fertilize regularly in the first year or so. Keep in mind that the soil doesn’t dry out as quickly in the shade as it does in the sun.

The very best time to buy Lenten Roses and Camellias is when they are blooming, and right now, Wingard’s has them in stock (those pictured above and much more). Edgeworthia and Winter Daphne are also available. Mahonia varieties will be coming in soon, as spring approaches. Because our winter temperatures are typically mild, the ground doesn’t freeze, making it possible to plant this time of year. Even though the plant won’t have much growth above ground until the temperatures warm up, the roots will be establishing underground. Set yourself up for future winters with blooming plants by purchasing now and getting them in the ground. Once established, these beauties will perform year after year with little or no maintenance. So, grab a jacket, get outside and plant something fresh and new to perk up the yard. You can get your hands dirty and not even break a sweat… a southern gardener’s dream come true.

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

By Kathy Torres

Happy New Year!!!  I can’t think of a better way to start off a new year, than by adding a gorgeous indoor plant to your home.  Especially because things look a bit dreary and bare after taking down the Christmas decorations.  Lucky for you, Wingard’s Annual Poinsettia Trade-In will begin January 10th!  All you need to do is bring in your Poinsettia, which, quite honestly, is probably looking pitiful by now, and you will receive a fresh African Violet.  These lovely plants can be tricky to grow, but with a little education on how to care for them, you can do it!  But first, I want to send you on a journey to help you find the enthusiasm to try. 

While doing my research for this blog, I stumbled on a piece from National Geographic Magazine that captured my attention and sparked my excitement about this delicate flower through the writer’s personal encounter in Tanzania’s Udzungwa National Park.  The article, actually a letter to African Violet Society of America, is a charming example of the lure of this enchanting plant specimen.  It’s an entertaining read and you can access it HERE.

After reading Andrew’s letter at the link highlighted in the paragraph above, I am sure you will be enticed into trying an African Violet in your home, (and you may even want to plan a trip to Tanzania)!  As with any plant, it’s best to know as much as you can about the requirements for it to flourish and remain healthy.  I would generally give you that information at this point in my blog, however, the job was made easy this time because Wingard’s has an existing blog that contains all you need to know.  Learn all about what African Violets need in terms of Light, Water, Soil, Food and Air by clicking on the link to African Violets 101, right HERE.

There are many species of African Violets and many bloom colors.  Also, to give them the best chance to do well, there are many products available made especially for them.  So… with all of this in mind, you are cordially invited to visit Wingard’s Market and the friendly, knowledgeable staff will assist you as you begin your own African Violet adventure!

May the new year bring you and your family many blessings and many things blooming!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!