Vegetable Gardening
We are all about “locally grown” these days in order to get the freshest, best tasting, “good for us” vegetables. And… you CAN’T get much more local than your own back yard! The satisfaction and pleasure gained from eating your own plump, juicy tomatoes, crisp, refreshing cucumbers, (the list goes on…) AND the confidence you have in the quality and safety of the foods you are consuming, are a few of the reasons folks are inclined to get down and dirty planting their own vegetable garden. Let’s talk about how you can do it, too!
Having a growing season that stretches from March to November is a perk, living in South Carolina,
providing an environment for warm and cool season vegetable gardening, each season supporting various produce. Warm weather is the prime time for tomatoes, beans, squash, cucumbers, peppers, and more, and in the cooler weather, an abundance of broccoli, cauliflower, lettuces and other greens can be harvested. It is actually possible to have two crops of cool weather vegetables in the same year, by planting in spring and fall. Check out Clemson’s Planting Guide HERE.
PLANNING is STEP #1 for your garden and here are a few considerations:
- Do you have an area that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight?
- What’s the quality of the soil in your yard? Have you ever had it tested?
- How big do you want your garden to be?
- Would you prefer a raised bed or small space garden?
- Do you have a nearby watering source?
- What do you want to grow?
Now that you have an idea of what is needed, let’s move to STEP #2 – PREPARING. Let’s talk size and soil.
SIZE – Start Small! Better to have a small garden with fewer weeds to control, than a larger one. A 10’ x 10’ is a good size for a beginner in-ground garden. Researching space requirements for each of the vegetables you intend to grow will help you determine how many plants you will need. This info is available on the seed packet or plant tag. If you prefer a small-space garden, there are many options such as Earthboxes, Raised Bed Kits, and Pottery/Container Gardens. You will be surprised by the quantity of plants that can be accommodated per square foot.
SOIL – Other than water, soil is the most critical element in how well your garden grows! Nutrients and drainage are key. To identify deficiencies, have your soil tested through the local Clemson Extension office. Stop by our Check-Out and we will assist you in processing an application and provide sample bags. Drainage issues are likely in areas of clay soil; a raised bed garden will provide a better growing medium in clay. Raised bed, Earthbox, and container gardens can achieve perfection as far as soil is concerned. The best soil and compost is available to purchase and gives you an edge on success. An in-ground garden is going to need a little more help, so add soil amendment and compost to provide valuable nutrients and improve drainage. Click HERE to view Wingard’s soils and composts. TIP: For the absolute best ever tomatoes, try Stout Ollie Compost to enrich the soil…it’s amazing!
Now, for the FUN part….PLANTING – STEP #3. It’s advisable to begin seed planting indoors in Jan/Feb, and move outside when frost is no longer likely. Buy good seeds… Botanical Interests seeds, known for quality and great packaging (extensive information inside and outside of the pack), are available in the Produce Market. Cool weather plants are available in the fall and again in mid-February, however, if we have a hard freeze, they will need protection. About Mid-March, you will find a full selection of Bonnie’s cool and warm weather plants at Wingard’s. The Rule of Thumb is to plant vegetable plants by Good Friday. Follow spacing guidelines for individual plants and maximize vertical space in the garden by trellising vining plants. Be sure to place tall and trellising plants on the north side, so they will not block sun from the smaller ones. Group plants by growing period and fertilizing needs, and rotate from year to year. The Flower and Garden Almanac & Calendar for the Midlands, compiled by Lexington’s Master Gardeners, is a great resource for vegetable gardening, as well as general gardening in the Midlands, and is available in the Gift Shoppe.
As you anticipate the feast of your harvest, don’t get side-tracked and forget that STEP #4 – MAINTAINING your vegetable garden is of great importance. ADEQUATE WATERING IS ESSENTIAL! Adding an irrigation system sets you way ahead of the game, otherwise, keep the hose close. Starting with seeds, keep them damp to encourage germination. For individual plants, water daily unless soil is wet. Sometimes, it’s tricky, but don’t overwater – the roots will rot. As the plants grow and the temperature rises, increase watering to twice a day. Feed routinely with organic fertilizers and keep an eye out for disease and pests. Check for signs of aphids, caterpillars, Japanese beetles and spots on leaves or stalks. Visit Wingard’s Plant Pharmacy and talk to one of our knowledgeable staff for guidance on fertilizing or problems that may arise. Many organic and chemical products appropriate for edibles are available. TIP: Avoid Blossom End Rot on tomatoes by treating with Calcium Nitrate, applying directly into the hole when planting and intermittently as directed.
The “farm to table “ trend we have seen over the last decade has lead us back to “home grown” food with a new recognition and appreciation, however, it is really nothing new. This simple, basic idea gets right to the heart of gardening. Support your local growers, and try your hand at growing your own!
There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!
Pruning Roses
Roses bring amazing color to your landscape from early summer to frost. Whether you enjoy cutting the long stemmed blooms of the Hybrid Tea roses, the bursting mass of color from Floribunda, Grandiflora, and Knock Out roses, or their multitudes of fragrances, the labor involved in caring for roses is well worth the reward! The FIRST RULE of growing healthy, vibrant roses, is PRUNING. Establishing a proper pruning routine will open up the plant, letting in light and air circulation, helping to discourage disease, and stimulate growth.
When roses are dormant (asleep and not producing new growth), nature provides the perfect environment for pruning. Typically in South Carolina, this occurs in January and February, when temperatures are low. Make sure you have the right tools for pruning – heavy duty ROSE GLOVES for protection from thorns, and most important… good, clean, sharp CLIPPERS. These items, as well as a handy SHARPENING TOOL, are available in Wingard’s Gift Shoppe.
Specifically…
Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, and Grandifloras:
• First, prune out dead or diseased growth, then any branches that rub together.
• Young plants should be further pruned to about four canes, by removing weaker canes. Established plants can be allowed 8 or more canes.
• Prune remaining canes back to about one-third original height.
• Remove any suckers growing from the roots of the old plant.
Knock Out Roses:
• Don’t prune Knock Out roses after their first growing season. Give them a second growing season to establish shape and fullness. During the following dormant season, remove any dead branches, as well as branches growing sideways.
• Shape as necessary.
• Rather than making a straight cut across the top of the bush, make cuts at different levels throughout the body of the plant, and cut ends of “leggy” branches.
Climbing Roses:
• Don’t prune a climbing rose for 2-3 years and then only cut lateral branches. Never cut the main canes.
In General…
In the dormant season, when pruning, It is important to make a clean cut on canes at a 45-degree angle, sloping downward TOWARD the bush.
During the growing season, prune frequently by cutting just above 5-leaf leaflets, to encourage repeat blooming.
For a video going into detail about pruning roses, click here.
There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!
Pruning Crape Myrtles
Call the Police! A MURDER has been committed…CRAPE MURDER, that is! You’ve seen them around town, with the huge knots and multiple shoots becoming a mass on each branch. Don’t let your beautiful Crape Myrtle be a victim of this pruning crime. The natural shape of these southern landscape specimens, when pruned improperly, is lost!
When you are pruning most trees and bushes, a system of branching like the diagram to the right should be created. From each cut, 2 new branches will sprout. Your goal is to shape your Crape Myrtle, to help it grow naturally, and guess what? When it has reached its mature size…YOU DON’T HAVE TO PRUNE IT ANY MORE.
A critical mistake that is very often made is purchasing a Crape Myrtle that will grow bigger than the space provided. Then, it becomes necessary to prune it every year to keep it within it’s space limitations. This is a problem and ultimately leads to CRAPE MURDER!
The most important fact you need to know when selecting a Crape Myrtle is the mature size. There are many varieties… Dwarf (2-3 ft.), Small (8-10 ft.), Medium (15-20 ft.), and Large (25-30 ft.). Rule #1- Plant one that will fit in your space and be allowed to grow to it’s mature size.
Important Tips to Follow:
- Prune in late January or February when plants are dormant (asleep, not producing new growth).
- Never make a cut in the same spot you cut the previous year. You will end up with knuckles and this is the beginning of the destruction of a natural looking Crape Myrtle.
- Take out any dead branches, or branches that are crossing over too close to others.
- Remove suckers growing from the base of the tree. Try Bonide Sucker Punch to make this task easier… available in Wingard’s Plant Pharmacy.
- Remove suckers from existing branches as needed to prevent too much density. Sun and air flow are important to promote healthy foliage and prevent disease.
- Use GOOD, CLEAN, SHARP clippers. Check out the pruning tools in Wingard’s Gift Shoppe and find exactly what you need!
Click here for a video to learn how to properly trim Crape Myrtle Trees in your yard. There’s a popular slogan that refers to the improper trimming of Crape Myrtles known as “Crape Murder.” Don’t be Crape Murderers.
There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!
Growing Citrus in South Carolina
Is there anything better than fresh lemon or lime in a Margarita or a tall glass of Iced Tea?
Well, there is… if you harvested that lemon or lime from your own tree! Yes, you can do it here in the south, with just a little TLC. Because of frost and freezing temperatures in the winter, it is necessary to protect vulnerable tropical plants, by moving them into a greenhouse, garage or sunroom. In order to move it, your lemon or lime tree should be planted in a pot, rather than in the ground. When that first frost or freeze is upon us, go ahead and move it in. And, don’t forget about it …watering and direct light are still necessary!
- Place it near a sunny window or use an indoor grow light (6 hours minimum needed), but NOT near an HVAC vent. Protect it from any draft.
- Be sure not to over water. Let the soil dry out in between waterings.
An added extra for planting citrus in a pot is that you can ensure good, rich, soil. Transplant to a larger pot as it grows – don’t allow it to become root bound. Citrus are heavy feeders, so you will need to be diligent about fertilizing. We recommend Daddy Pete’s Sea & Farm Potting Soil, mixed with a little Stout Ollie Compost (the best organic nutritional additive ever). Fertilize 3 times/year with Espoma Citrus-tone (organic).
Move citrus plant(s) outdoors, once there is no danger of frost or freezing temperatures. Place in a spot that receives direct sun all day, or at least 6 hours.
As the weather warms up and especially during the hottest days of summer, more frequent watering will be required. Soak it when you water, but allow the soil to dry out in between watering. When top 2 inches are dry, it’s time to water. Avoid keeping the area around the trunk wet and NEVER allow plant roots to sit in water. Allow for good drainage by using Pot Pads underneath the pot to lift it off the ground. These are available in Wingard’s Gift Shoppe.
Most citrus are self-fertile, but hand-pollination with a small paint brush improves fruit production.
Little pruning is required, however, suckers, dead twigs and extra long growth should be removed. Clip off fruit as it ripens – DO NOT PULL.
A brand new shipment of citrus has just been received at Wingard’s Market. Stop in soon and take advantage of the large inventory.
Remember…
It’s five o’clock somewhere! Be ready!
There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!
Check out our video below for more growing tips!
Derrick Gunter’s Heirloom Tomatoes
Derrick Gunter & Radiator Charlie Knew A Good Thing When They Saw It
By Tom Poland
Robert Clark and I were on the road running down a story, a story about land, a farmhouse, and tomatoes, a story of war, old ways, and survivors of sorts. On a hot, humid July morning we abandoned I-20 for Longs Pond Road and after a back road or two arrived at a farmhouse near the community of Boiling Springs. Two big blackjack oaks stood out front. Out back, a handsome, clapboard smokehouse looked lonely, its fellow outbuildings long-fallen comrades. “The other buildings were too far gone. We tore down the old cow barn in the summer of 2007,” said Derrick Gunter, the owner of this historic acreage in classic Sandhills Country.
Derrick grows heirloom tomatoes here in ancient sea bottom and he knows his history. (In fact, he teaches it.) Those trees of the Old South, blackjack oaks, almost never get much size to them, but Derrick’s did. He believes they may be the oldest blackjacks in the country. And you could say the trees know a thing or two about the Civil War. About thirty yards past the blackjacks, a low spot runs down Derrick’s property line on across Calks Ferry Road. As saplings, the blackjacks were standing when Sherman and his boys came through on the way to Columbia. Right near those trees Sherman and his troops bogged down in that low spot, a February rain-fed quagmire. The Union troops offloaded cannon balls and minnie [Minié] balls to lighten their load and better get through the morass. Several lifetimes later, Derrick’s grandfather found a cannon ball and “a shoe box full of minnie balls” alongside the road, a story that illustrates how much better supplied the North was than the South.
Another war came along and when housing construction exploded after World War II most homes were built of brick. The Hallman family built Derrick’s 1951 farmhouse with its German siding; it’s probably the last true farmhouse built in South Carolina. The house was built with cut nails and the walls were constructed with 4 by 6 un-planed studs. The house was built of about 90 percent heartpine.
“My dad got the property after a bachelor son died in 2004 and the house soon went to probate,” said Derrick. Derrick’s dad bought the farmhouse nine years ago. “I financed the reconstruction on the house and the land was gifted to me by my dad,” said Derrick.
Derrick began to work on the old home, whose interior sports handsome eastern white cedar tongue-and-groove paneling and real hardwood floors. The main room’s lacquer caramelized long ago when creosote in the chimney blazed up, roaring like a train barreling down the track.
Best Tomato I’ve Ever Eaten
The folks who sold the farmhouse to Derrick’s dad came up through the Depression. “They didn’t throw anything way,” said Derrick. “I threw away thousands of ties that wrapped loaves of bread.” Derrick and his dad had to make seven trips hauling off things like thousands of Duke Mayonnaise and peanut butter jars. They even found a 1920 receipt from Georgia for the Stuart pecan trees growing out back, $6.50 for six trees. Many folks who grew up in the Depression didn’t throw anything away. They had a mantra: “Keep something seven years, and you’ll find a new use for it.”
Derrick’s dad gifted him some land adjoining the farmhouse and that led to a decision. How best to spend summer days. Derrick teaches U.S. History at White Knoll High School. He has his summers free. “You’ve got all that time off in the summer,” said his mother, “why don’t you grow peanuts?”
“The land was cleared before I moved into the farmhouse during 2009. That was before I got married. In 2011, I was questioned about growing peanuts. I researched heirloom tomatoes and planted them instead. Then his dad passed along some sage advice. “Don’t grow peanuts. It’s a lot of work and will drive you crazy. Grow tomatoes,” he said remembering a Russian heirloom tomato a neighbor up the road had brought them. Derrick knew the tomato his dad was referring to. He had made a sandwich from it. “Best tomato I’ve ever eaten.”
That Russian heirloom? It’s called a “Black From Tula.” It’s a big “black” tomato with 3- to 4-inch, slightly flattened, oblate, dark brown to purple fruit. It has deep green shoulders. Its flavor is heavenly, rich, slightly salty, with a smoky-fruit flavor. Another popular heirloom is the Marion, developed by the Clemson Extension Service in 1963. “Old timers love it,” said Derrick.
Radiator Charlie
Derrick started out with 20 plants, a test run featuring eight varieties. Four failed but four did well. History enthusiast Derrick forged ahead. “When my son Jackson Lee—I named him after Robert E Lee and Stonewall Jackson, whom I consider the best two generals in American history—was born in 2013, it didn’t deter my expansion of growing tomatoes. Farming was foreign to my wife since she grew up Rock Hill but she has adjusted quite well to this kind of life.” Today, Derrick grows mainline varieties with names as colorful as they are. Cherokee Purple, Black Krim (Crimean), German Johnson, a pink tomato, and the most colorful name of all, Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter.
“Radiator Charlie,” said Derrick, “owned land. That was the only thing he had. He had ethics and common sense but no education. He had will power and made a success of himself.” Radiator Charlie’s story is one of more than making do, of finding a way not just to survive but prosper. In the early 1930s, Marshall Cletis Byles was going through a tough time in his hometown of Logan, West Virginia. He ran a small repair shop at the bottom of a mountain, a good location, for the mountain was famed for overheating trucks, sending them steaming and hissing back down the mountain. He got a lot of business from trucks that never made it to the top, thus the moniker “Radiator Charlie.”
The Great Depression was making its presence known and Byles decided to develop a large tomato families could feast on. Though he had no training in plants he knew what he liked. He started with a German Johnson, Beefsteaks, an unknown Italian variety, and an unknown English variety. He grew plants from each variety and planted three Beefsteaks, three of the Italian variety, and three of the English variety in a circle. In the center, he planted the German Johnson.
Using a baby syringe, he cross-pollinated the German Johnson with pollen from other plants in the circle. He saved the seeds and planted them the next year. He selected the best seedlings and planted them in the middle of a circle, surrounded by the other seedlings. He repeated this strategy for six years, cross-pollinating the strongest plants in the center with pollen from plants in the circle. He ended up with a pretty good tomato and sold the seedlings for $1.00 each, a nice sum in his day. People drove hundreds of miles to buy his seeds. And here’s why. Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifters are red and pink, amongst the most flavorful heirloom tomatoes, and big, averaging 2 to 4 pounds. They bear fruit in about 80 days, are perfect for slicing, and produce an abundant crop. On top of that they resist disease and produce until frost does them in. Radiator Charlie, unlike all those trucks, climbed a mountain of his own and ascended to legend. Growers like Radiator Charlie and Derrick Gunter free you and me of red, perfect, tasteless grocery store tomatoes.
The Nurturing Cycle
Most American heirlooms trace their heritage to the mountains of Tennessee, North Carolina, Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia, and Ohio. Yes, Ohio has mountains. They do well in these areas because of the climate. Down here, heat and humidity are heirlooms’ enemies. Derrick’s do well he says because “I nurture them.” That he does. You can make the case that the cycle of nurturing starts with the preparation of seeds, but we’ll discuss that last. Let’s start with planting.
In spring, he puts in twenty hours a week. He digs holes, plants, and lays down mulch. He prefers rye or wheat straw for mulch. Such mulch really cuts down on weeds. He gets his mulch from Stanley Shumpert, Lexington County’s last dairy farmer and his uncle.
He grows plants organically, though he points out that he isn’t “certified organic.” He plants marigolds as a natural pesticide. “I haven’t used any insecticides at all this year,” says Derrick. Marigolds deliver other bonuses. They attract beneficial wasps and pollinators and repel deer and nematodes.
He uses fish fertilizer on the plants. With the heavy lifting behind him, Derrick works six and a half hours a week during the growing season. When he’s ready to plant them he rinses them in water with just a touch of bleach to kill any pathogens present. A week before Valentine’s Day he puts the seeds in “grow soil” beneath grow lights. “After a month, they go into bigger pots,” said Derrick. “The first of April they can go into the soil.” Derrick plants one variety per row. Tomatoes are self-pollinators. Each plant has both sexes needed for pollination. Isolating tomatoes can reduce cross-pollination but wind and bees will still cross-pollinate them.
Now comes the growing season, the nurturing season’s apex when rain is a blessing, a time that makes many a kitchen a better place, a time that makes restaurant owners happy. “Naturally, one to two inches of rain per week is preferable,” said Derrick. “However, that’s not usually the case. If you are going to water your plants, it’s best to use a slow drip system. I avoid directly watering the plants from the top. That speeds up fungal problems.” He passes a tip along for us would-be growers: “It’s better to underwater than overwater.”
All the nurturing produces vines bejeweled with tomatoes of varying colors result, not the monochromatic red so prevalent in non-heirloom varieties. From these not-so-round heirloom tomatoes come savory flavors. Among them, Derrick seeks the progenitors of next season’s plants.
“I go to the middle of the row and pick out the biggest, healthiest tomatoes for seeds. Once he collects the seeds, he puts them in a cup of water in a jar. He shakes it to break up the gel that coats the seeds. The next step is to place the seeds on paper towels where they dry. When they’re good and dry, into the refrigerator they go until planting time. That’s when the real fun begins for those who love a classic sandwich thick with slices of summer’s savory heirloom tomatoes slathered with Duke’s mayonnaise.
“An heirloom tomato,” says Derrick, “is a heritage variety that has been lost to hybridization that’s red, round, “perfect,” and tasteless. This prompts Derrick to quote the late Andy Rooney. “The federal government has sponsored research that has produced a tomato that is perfect in every respect, except that you can’t eat it.”
Heirloom tomatoes serve up a lesson about people. In our image-crazed society, pretty people generally get a lot more attention than they deserve, sort of like round, red, perfect tasteless tomatoes. How easily we overlook what really matters. Plain people, often relegated to the background, quietly go about their business making the world a better place.
As for Derrick Gunter? Well, he made a good decision when he chose to plant heirloom tomatoes, not peanuts. Consider him a bit of a preservationist. “The benefit of the heirloom is remembering the past and securing the future,” said Derrick. “When you’re dead and gone, your family can enjoy the exact same thing you enjoyed. We as a society, by preserving our heritage produce in a fast-changing world, give others a never-changing world. Something that stands the test of time.”
Derrick Gunter’s Tomato Sandwich Recipe
White Sunbeam Bread
Duke’s Mayonnaise only
Any fully ripe pink or black or mixture heirloom tomato
Salt & Pepper
Armor Brand Dried Beef
Derrick Gunter’s Fried Green Tomatoes Recipe
Any green tomato
Salt for 45 minutes to draw water out
Slice average thickness
Sprinkle with salt
Coat with mix half self-rising flour and half fish fry mix
Fry in vegetable or peanut oil
About the Author: Tom Poland’s work has appeared in magazines throughout the South. Among his recent books are Classic Carolina Road Trips from Columbia; Georgialina: A Southland, as We Knew It; and Reflections of South Carolina, Vol2. Swamp Gravy, Georgia’s Official Folk Life Drama, staged his play, Solid Ground. He writes a weekly column for newspapers and journals in Georgia and South Carolina about the South, its people, traditions, lifestyle and changing culture and speaks to groups across South Carolina and Georgia. Tom grew up in Lincoln County, Georgia, and graduated from the University of Georgia. He lives in Columbia, South Carolina, where he writes about “Georgialina” – his name for eastern Georgia and South Carolina.
This article is also a chapter in Tom’s recent book, “South Carolina Country Roads: Of Train Depots, Filling Stations & Other Vanishing Charms,” which can be purchased on Amazon.com.
A Taste of the Tropics with Houseplants
What’s wrong with my plant?
It’s a common question we get this time of year! In fact, a customer sent us this picture.
Here are some things you can do to troubleshoot the problem:
1. Pull the mulch back about 4″ away from the trunk of the plants, and make sure it is not more than 3″ thick. If more than 3″ thick thin it out.
2. For newly planted trees and shrubs, check to make sure the top of the root ball is 1″ above ground level. If it is at ground level or below the plant should be replanted higher. It should take 9 to 12 months to settle to ground level.
3. It would be good to dig up the plant and see if the ground is holding water like a bowl and not soaking in. Lack of drainage will create root rot which will kill the plant. The roots will be brown, instead of white, and can be mushy.
To fix this a drainage problem,
- dig up the plant and cut off all mushy roots and remove a large amount of soil out of the hole. Bring in fresh soil to re-plant in. Treat the hole and plant roots that are left with Captan fungicide.After re-planting add root stimulater to the soil to get the white feeder roots boosted and growing. They are the main ones that take in moisture and nutrients.
- adjust irrigation length of time to allow only 1” of water to hit the plant. You can put some sort of container near the base of the plant and measure how long it takes your irrigation to add 1” of water to the container. That’s how long you should be running that zone. If you can’t adjust the time for that zone, then adjust how frequent you water.
4. If you dig up the plant and find the soil is very dry, follow the instructions above to make sure you are getting 1” of water to your plants when you irrigate. If you checking and make these adjustments you should see a major improvement in your plant provided the root damage has not hit the point of no return.
5. Do you have a dog ? If so make sure the dog (or a neighbor’s dog) is not urinating on the plant. With time the urine will kill the plant. Normally it starts on one side and moves across the plant. Or, has the dog laid on the plant or has somebody stepped on the plant and broken it up?
6. Freeze damage often doesn’t show up until summer when the heat kicks in. Look at the base of the trunk or the stems close to the trunk. See if they have split open. You may see wood and no bark or bark torn away from the wood. If this is the case, you will just have to replace the plant.7. If none of the above are the issue it would be good to get a soil test done
- The ph could be way off.
- The lack of a nutrient (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium) would indicate a fertilizer issue.
The soil test is done through the Clemson extension office located below the Cook Out in Lexington next to the magistrate’s office. It should cost $6 for the standard test. The test results will tell what needs to be added to the soil to balance the pH and n-p-k needs.
Japanese Beetles
You may have seen some beetles munching on your roses or crape myrtles or a variety of other flowering plants. These are Japanese Beetles, and they arrived a little late this year, since we had such a cool Spring. Japanese beetles feed mainly on flower buds or open blossoms, but can feed on leaves. Since many beetles feed mainly at night, the gardener rarely sees them, only the damage that they cause.
Japanese beetles (Popillia japonica) feed during the day and are perhaps the most readily recognized of the beetle pests that feed on plants in your garden. An adult Japanese beetle is about ½ inch long and has a metallic green body and legs with coppery-brown wing covers. It can be distinguished from similar beetles by the tufts of white hair that are clearly visible at the end of its abdomen.
The adults begin emerging from the soil in mid-May and are present through August. They can live from 30 to 45 days. They lay their eggs in the soil. Grubs hatch from the eggs and feed on grass roots. As the weather cools, the grubs move more deeply into the soil to overwinter (survive the winter). In the spring, the grubs migrate back up to the root zone and continue to feed. They pupate (change to adult form) in late April and May.
Japanese beetles have chewing mouthparts and feed on flowers, buds and leaves of roses (as well as numerous other plant species). Partial or entire flowers and buds may be eaten. Typically, flowers and buds that have been fed on have ragged edges and/or holes in the petals. Affected buds may fail to open. Rose leaves are typically skeletonized (only leaf veins remain) by the feeding. Leaves with tender veins may be eaten completely.
Control: Various non-chemical control options are available for Japanese beetles. They can be handpicked and destroyed by dropping into soapy water. When only a few plants are involved, fine netting, such as tulle fabric, can be placed over the bush or individual blossoms to exclude the beetles. Japanese beetle traps are available commercially, but should be used with caution. They can be effective at reducing adult populations, but they should be kept at least 50 feet from the plant(s) that you are trying to protect. The traps have the potential to create more of a problem by attracting numerous beetles to the area. Also, traps must be emptied frequently as beetles are repelled by the smell of ammonia which is released by dead, rotting beetles.
It is important to keep in mind that rose blossoms openly quickly and are very attractive to Japanese beetles. These circumstances make it difficult to keep the blooms adequately covered with insecticide to protect them. So, the best chemical-free method is to just let them have their feast and your plant will recover after they’ve had their fill.
Insecticides that are labeled for homeowner use include sprays containing bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, neem oil, permethrin, or pyrethrin to control beetles. We recommend Bayer 3-in-1 Insect, Disease & Mite Control if you are prone to using chemical insect control. Additionally, treat your soil this summer with Hi Yield Grub Free Zone, to kill the grubs which will morph in to beetles next year.
A Buffet of Berries for Winter Birds


Plants with berries add winter interest to the garden and also attract many different types of birds. But which berries are best for your yard, and how can you ensure a bountiful buffet for your feathered friends to enjoy?
Caring for Berries
No matter which berries you choose to add to your landscape, opt for varieties native to your region. They are more readily adapted to the local climate changes. Furthermore, regional birds will recognize the berries more easily.
Plant berry bushes as early as possible so the plants have plenty of time to become established in your landscape and bear copious amounts of fruit for the winter. Water them well throughout the summer and fall to encourage a good crop of plump, rich berries. Avoid pruning the bushes in autumn, and instead leave the branches intact, complete with their tasty treats. Not only will winter wildlife enjoy the feast, but the extra shelter from unpruned bushes will also be appreciated.
Best Winter Berries
There are many different types of berries that can attract winter birds, but two standouts are top picks for winter interest, not only for the birds but for their beauty in the garden.
- Hollies
Winterberry, Weeping Yaupon, and Inkberry Hollies provide great cover and nesting sites as well as edible berries in shades of red, orange and yellow. - Eastern Red Cedar
This native evergreen has a huge feathered following. The dense clusters of navy blue berries attract different thrushes, bluebirds, woodpeckers, and ruby-crowned kinglets.
While it may be hard to find these plants at the garden center this time of year, make a mental note to look for them in the Spring. Next Winter birds will love the berries they can find in your yard, and you will love the visual interest and seasonal color these beneficial plants provide.
Nurturing Spring Bulbs

Spring bulbs faithfully reappear at the most advantageous time – after a long, cold winter, just when we’re longing for bright colors to relieve the monotony of winter snow and ice. Most spring bulbs are perennial and multiply in number every year, bringing more beauty to the flowerbeds each spring, but some problems can destroy a carefully planted bulb bed. Seemingly carefree, bulbs do require a bit of nurturing to ensure they perform their very best for years to come.
Tips for Bulb Care
- Plant spring bulbs in October. Be sure to read directions on the package for planting depth. Different flowers required different depths. Position bulb in ground with foliage tip up and root end down.
- Good soil drainage is important to prevent bulbs from rotting so plan your site accordingly. Do not plant bulbs near areas where downspouts let out or in low wet areas. Amend clay soil with soil enhancer to promote good drainage.
- When planting bulbs in the fall, add a high phosphorus fertilizer to the planting hole for the development of strong roots. This will help the bulbs establish well so they can renew themselves each year. Bone Meal is a good fertilizer to use.
- Bulb foliage will often break through the soil after a few warm winter days. This vegetation is hardy and its exposure to the cold will not damage your plants or prevent them from blooming. There is no need to cover, wrap or otherwise protect this initial foliage.
- Fertilize bulbs as plants are emerging from the ground. Do not fertilize once flowers appear. Use a 5-10-5 granular fertilizer to assist in foliage and flower development, ideally one that is formulated especially for bulbs.
- After blooming, cut back the flower stalk, but not the foliage. Cutting back the flower stalk will force the plant to put its energy into the bulb for next year’s flowers and not into seed production that would dampen the strength of the bulb.
- Allow the leaves to die back naturally. The leaves are vital for producing food that is stored in the bulb for next year’s growth. Cut leaves, never pull, once they have turned yellow – pulling can damage the bulb. Do not tie leaves as this reduces the leaf surface required for adequate food production.
- When the foliage has completely died back the bulb is dormant, and this is the proper time to dig and separate bulbs if necessary. Flowering will often be reduced when bulb beds become over-crowded. If division is needed, bulbs should be dug and stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place and replanted in the fall.
- Fertilize bulbs again in the fall with a high-phosphorus, granular fertilizer.
- Daffodils and Narcissus are the easiest to grow in the South, and most of them are deer resistant. Tulips are the hardest to grow in the South, because they prefer a colder climate.
With thoughtful care, you can easily help your bulbs reach their full potential and they will thrive for many years.
Autumn: Why Plant Now?
Although many gardeners plant trees and shrubs in the spring, knowledgeable gardeners plant in the fall to take advantage of all this fabulous season has to offer. But why is fall planting better than spring planting?
- Stress Reduction
Transplanting causes stress as plants are removed from containers, balls or established locations and changed to new locations. Planting in the fall, when a plant is entering dormancy and is generally hardier and sturdier, reduces this stress so the plant can thrive.
- Establishing Strong Roots
Fall planting “establishes” trees and shrubs by encouraging root growth. Because the soil is still warm, the roots continue to develop until freezing, though the upper parts of the plant are already dormant. When transplanting in the spring, the developed roots are active and delicate tips or rootlets, as well as buds and new leaves, are more easily damaged.
- Weather Resiliency
Trees and shrubs planted in the fall are better able to withstand the rigors of the next summer’s heat and dry conditions because they have much longer to develop healthy roots systems and become thoroughly established. This is especially critical in dry climates or areas prone to drought or irregular rainfall.
- Faster Maturity
The “head-start” of fall planting results in a larger plant in less time, helping create a mature landscape without waiting for smaller plants to catch up. This can be especially critical when replacing dead or damaged plants in a mature landscape to avoid a gap or uneven look.
- Water Conservation
Planting in the fall saves watering time and promotes conservation by eliminating daily watering. Cooler temperatures with the addition of both morning and evening dew contribute greatly to soil moisture availability in fall without as much supplemental watering.
- Color Confirmation
Fall is the best time to see a plant’s autumnal color. Planting in the fall eliminates the surprise of the wrong color or unexpected shades that may not coordinate with nearby plants. By planting in autumn, you’ll know exactly what you’re purchasing and planting, and you will be able to match better with your existing landscape.
Autumn can be the ideal time to plant trees and shrubs, whether you are adding to your landscape, replacing plants or starting a whole new look. If you plant in autumn, you’ll be amazed at how lovely your landscape will look next spring.
Watering: How Much?


Water is critical for a healthy garden and landscape, but how much water is too much, how much isn’t enough and how much is just right? Unfortunately, there isn’t a specific answer that suits every gardener’s needs. All plants have different water requirements, which change depending on the type of soil, amount of sun, temperature, humidity, season, maturity of the plant and overall growing environment.
Initial Watering
All plants, including specimens described as drought tolerant, will require water when first planted. This is because many of the smaller roots responsible for water uptake are usually damaged during shipment and planting. Build a small circular soil wall around the plant to contain water while it percolates into the soil. Watch new plants carefully and keep them well-watered as their roots settle in and they adapt to their new or transplanted location.
Groups Are Good
It’s a good idea to have some knowledge of the plant’s water requirements when determining the location in the garden. It will keep watering simple if you plant a new specimen near other plants with similar water requirements. In this way, there is no need to readjust an irrigation system or watering schedule, since all the plants in the group have similar needs.
Need a Drink?
Because plants’ watering needs can change through the season, how can you tell if a plant needs more water? Most plants will wilt as the soil becomes too dry. The leaves may droop, and if it’s an upright plant, the top ends may become soft and bend over. Glossy plants may begin to look dull, while thick leaves will shrivel. If you notice these signs, it is time to water! Most plants will revive if watered quickly enough, but be sure to water deeply rather than allowing moisture to run off the surface.
How can you tell if you should water? Push your finger into the soil an inch or two from the base of a plant. Perfect soil should feel cool and slightly moist. Some soil should stick to your finger. If none does, it’s too dry. If it’s muddy, don’t water. Overwatering kills plants by depriving the roots of oxygen. Some gardeners use water meters to see the precise amount of moisture. If you’re unsure, this tool can be helpful.
Adjusting Your Watering Schedule
The amount you have to water your plants or landscape can change from day to day. A cool morning will allow more dew to form and drain to the soil, or a sudden afternoon thunderstorm can be enough water to keep your plants hydrated for a few days. An overly hot day, however, can rapidly deplete water resources and extra watering may be required. Check your plants and landscape regularly to be sure they are getting adequate water, and make adjustments as needed to keep them suitably moist without either too much or too little water.
How MUCH water?
Established lawns require approximately 1 inch of water per week in the summer. Put several
containers out on your lawn and put a mark at a depth of 1 inch. Then turn on the irrigation. Determine
how long it takes to fill the container to the 1 inch mark. Divide the time by 4 and set the zones to run that
amount of time every other day starting at 5:30 am. Keep an eye on the lawn as some zones may need
more or less water due to the soil’s ability to drain.
New lawns – follow the instructions by the installer, or the place of purchase.
Trees or shrubs (3 or 7 gal) installed within the past six months – Each plant will need about 1 inch
of water a day when daytime temperatures are 90 degrees or higher. (Even more if temperatures exceed
100 degrees.) You can use the same container method explained above to determine how long it takes
your irrigation system to put out 1 inch of water. You will need to water for that amount of time every day.
Trees (15 gal) installed within the past six months – Take a 5 gallon bucket and put a hole on the side
near the bottom using a 1/16 inch drill bit (approximately the diameter of the lead in a #2 pencil). Fill it
with water daily, and it will slowly trickle out. Put a brick in the bucket so it doesn’t blow away when it is
empty. For larger trees, use more buckets.
Remember to reduce the water when our high temperatures decrease as we go into the Fall.
If the temperature high is in the:
80’s – water every other day
70’s – water every 3rd day
60’s – water every 4th day
50’s – water once a week
These are some general rules, but not an absolute answer to irrigation of a lawns, trees, and shrubs due
to natural rainfall, soil variables, slopes, drainage, and other issues. Every location is different. Watch
how your plants respond and adjust accordingly.
For more information, https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/watering-shrubs-and-trees/.

