Category Archives: Gardening

Herb Gardening

Plants used for the medicinal, savory, or aromatic quality of their roots, leaves, green stems and flowers are considered to be herbs. Practically every culture around the world has a history of some type of herb use. Chinese herb books date from about 2700 B.C. and include extensive lists of medicinal plants. Italy, India, and Thailand are well known for using herbs in cooking. The Greeks and Romans crowned their heroes with dill and laurel. Regardless of the desired usage, growing and harvesting herbs is easy and rewarding. They can be grown in small spaces or containers, intermingled among vegetables and/or flowers in the garden, or even indoors. Herbs are low maintenance plants, being naturally resistant to diseases and pests.

Tips for Planting Herbs:

  • Plant herbs in average garden soil with organic matter added to improve texture and drainage.
  • Choose a site that receives at least 6 hours of direct sun each day.
  • Avoid ground where water stands or runs during heavy rains.
  • Compensate for poor drainage with raised beds amended with compost.
  • Apply balanced fertilizers sparingly to leafy, fast-growing herbs. Heavy applications of fertilizer, especially those containing large amounts of nitrogen, will decrease the concentration of essential oils in the lush green growth.
  • Plan your herb garden by grouping herbs according to light, irrigation, and soil requirements. Most herbs enjoy full sun, but a few tolerate shade.
  • Most herbs are grown in SC as annuals. Exceptions:  Rosemary, Thyme, Lavender.
  • Be aware of the growth habits of the plants to ensure that adequate space is available.

Growing Requirements & Uses of Common Herbs:

Harvesting, Drying & Storing Herbs:

Harvest herbs before they flower for the fullest flavor. Try to harvest early in the day after plants dry off and before it gets hot.   Only remove about 1/3 to 1/2 of a stem at one time.   Deadheading or removal of flowers as they appear will result in continued production of new leaves suitable for harvest. Use a sharp knife or pruners to make clean cuts.

After harvesting, gently wash the herbs and dry them thoroughly on paper towels. Remove any dead or damaged material.  Tie the herbs in loose bunches that allow for good air circulation. Place the bunches into small paper bags with the stem ends sticking out of the top of the bag.  Punch holes in the bag to allow for ventilation. The bags help protect the herbs from dust and other contamination while drying. Tie the tops of the bags and hang in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area out of the sun.  It may take up to a month for herbs to dry completely.

After herbs are dry, remove the leaves from the stems and package in sealed containers in a cool location.  To preserve the full flavor of herbs try to avoid crushing the leaves when packaging.  Crush them just prior to using them. When properly stored, most herbs retain their flavor for about a year. 

Air drying works best with herbs that do not have a high moisture content, like bay, dill, marjoram, oregano, rosemary and thyme.  To retain the best flavor of these herbs, you’ll either need to allow them to dry naturally or use a food dehydrator.  Microwave and/or oven drying actually cook the herbs to a degree, diminishing the oil content and flavor.

If you want to preserve herbs with succulent leaves or a high moisture content, such as basil, chives, mint, and tarragon, consider freezing them. It’s easy to do and even quicker than drying. Simply cut off individual leaves, lay them flat on a cookie sheet, cover with wax paper and freeze for about 2 hours.  After they have frozen, place them in zip-lock bags and return to the freezer. 

EarthBox Gardening Kit:

Consider using the EarthBox for your herb garden, available at Wingard’s!  Here’s the pitch… You name it, you can grow it in the EarthBox! Poor soil conditions and small backyards are no match for this patented container gardening system. Developed by commercial farmers and proven in the lab and on the farm, this maintenance-free growing system controls soil conditions and more than doubles the yield of a conventional garden—with less fertilizer, less water, and virtually no effort. Just add plants, water, and sunlight for an easy garden that requires no digging, no weeding, and no guesswork! Unlike other raised bed gardens and planters, the EarthBox gardening system is self-watering, sustainable, and easily moveable. Now that’s one smart garden!

Vegetable Gardening

Vegetable Gardening

We are all about “locally grown” these days in order to get the freshest, best tasting, “good for us” vegetables. And… you CAN’T get much more local than your own back yard! The satisfaction and pleasure gained from eating your own plump, juicy tomatoes, crisp, refreshing cucumbers, (the list goes on…) AND the confidence you have in the quality and safety of the foods you are consuming, are a few of the reasons folks are inclined to get down and dirty planting their own vegetable garden. Let’s talk about how you can do it, too!

Having a growing season that stretches from March to November is a perk, living in South Carolina,
providing an environment for warm and cool season vegetable gardening, each season supporting various produce. Warm weather is the prime time for tomatoes, beans, squash, cucumbers, peppers, and more, and in the cooler weather, an abundance of broccoli, cauliflower, lettuces and other greens can be harvested. It is actually possible to have two crops of cool weather vegetables in the same year, by planting in spring and fall. Check out Clemson’s Planting Guide HERE.

PLANNING is STEP #1 for your garden and here are a few considerations:

  • Do you have an area that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight?
  • What’s the quality of the soil in your yard? Have you ever had it tested?
  • How big do you want your garden to be?
  • Would you prefer a raised bed or small space garden?
  • Do you have a nearby watering source?
  • What do you want to grow?

Now that you have an idea of what is needed, let’s move to STEP #2 – PREPARING. Let’s talk size and soil.

  • SIZE – Start Small! Better to have a small garden with fewer weeds to control, than a larger one. A 10’ x 10’ is a good size for a beginner in-ground garden. Researching space requirements for each of the vegetables you intend to grow will help you determine how many plants you will need. This info is available on the seed packet or plant tag. If you prefer a small-space garden, there are many options such as Earthboxes, Raised Bed Kits, and Pottery/Container Gardens. You will be surprised by the quantity of plants that can be accommodated per square foot.
  • SOIL – Other than water, soil is the most critical element in how well your garden grows! Nutrients and drainage are key. To identify deficiencies, have your soil tested through the local Clemson Extension office. Stop by our Check-Out and we will assist you in processing an application and provide sample bags. Drainage issues are likely in areas of clay soil; a raised bed garden will provide a better growing medium in clay. Raised bed, Earthbox, and container gardens can achieve perfection as far as soil is concerned. The best soil and compost is available to purchase and gives you an edge on success. An in-ground garden is going to need a little more help, so add soil amendment and compost to provide valuable nutrients and improve drainage. Click HERE to view Wingard’s soils and composts. TIP: For the absolute best ever tomatoes, try Stout Ollie Compost to enrich the soil…it’s amazing!

Now, for the FUN part….PLANTING – STEP #3. It’s advisable to begin seed planting indoors in Jan/Feb, and move outside when frost is no longer likely. Buy good seeds… Botanical Interests seeds, known for quality and great packaging (extensive information inside and outside of the pack), are available in the Produce Market. Cool weather plants are available in the fall and again in mid-February, however, if we have a hard freeze, they will need protection. About Mid-March, you will find a full selection of Bonnie’s cool and warm weather plants at Wingard’s. The Rule of Thumb is to plant vegetable plants by Good Friday. Follow spacing guidelines for individual plants and maximize vertical space in the garden by trellising vining plants. Be sure to place tall and trellising plants on the north side, so they will not block sun from the smaller ones. Group plants by growing period and fertilizing needs, and rotate from year to year. The Flower and Garden Almanac & Calendar for the Midlands, compiled by Lexington’s Master Gardeners, is a great resource for vegetable gardening, as well as general gardening in the Midlands, and is available in the Gift Shoppe.

As you anticipate the feast of your harvest, don’t get side-tracked and forget that STEP #4 – MAINTAINING your vegetable garden is of great importance. ADEQUATE WATERING IS ESSENTIAL! Adding an irrigation system sets you way ahead of the game, otherwise, keep the hose close. Starting with seeds, keep them damp to encourage germination. For individual plants, water daily unless soil is wet. Sometimes, it’s tricky, but don’t overwater – the roots will rot. As the plants grow and the temperature rises, increase watering to twice a day. Feed routinely with organic fertilizers and keep an eye out for disease and pests. Check for signs of aphids, caterpillars, Japanese beetles and spots on leaves or stalks. Visit Wingard’s Plant Pharmacy and talk to one of our knowledgeable staff for guidance on fertilizing or problems that may arise. Many organic and chemical products appropriate for edibles are available. TIP: Avoid Blossom End Rot on tomatoes by treating with Calcium Nitrate, applying directly into the hole when planting and intermittently as directed.

The “farm to table “ trend we have seen over the last decade has lead us back to “home grown” food with a new recognition and appreciation, however, it is really nothing new. This simple, basic idea gets right to the heart of gardening. Support your local growers, and try your hand at growing your own!

There’s Always Something Blooming at Wingard’s!

Pruning Roses

Roses bring amazing color to your landscape from early summer to frost. Whether you enjoy cutting the long stemmed blooms of the Hybrid Tea roses, the bursting mass of color from Floribunda, Grandiflora, and Knock Out roses, or their multitudes of fragrances, the labor involved in caring for roses is well worth the reward! The FIRST RULE of growing healthy, vibrant roses, is PRUNING. Establishing a proper pruning routine will open up the plant, letting in light and air circulation, helping to discourage disease, and stimulate growth.

When roses are dormant (asleep and not producing new growth), nature provides the perfect environment for pruning. Typically in South Carolina, this occurs in January and February, when temperatures are low. Make sure you have the right tools for pruning – heavy duty ROSE GLOVES for protection from thorns, and most important… good, clean, sharp  CLIPPERS. These items, as well as a handy SHARPENING TOOL, are available in Wingard’s Gift Shoppe.

Specifically…

Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, and Grandifloras:
• First, prune out dead or diseased growth, then any branches that rub together.
• Young plants should be further pruned to about four canes, by removing weaker canes. Established plants can be allowed 8 or more canes.
• Prune remaining canes back to about one-third original height.
• Remove any suckers growing from the roots of the old plant.

Knock Out Roses:
• Don’t prune Knock Out roses after their first growing season. Give them a second growing season to establish shape and fullness. During the following dormant season, remove any dead branches, as well as branches growing sideways.
• Shape as necessary.
• Rather than making a straight cut across the top of the bush, make cuts at different levels throughout the body of the plant, and cut ends of “leggy” branches.

Climbing Roses:
• Don’t prune a climbing rose for 2-3 years and then only cut lateral branches. Never cut the main canes.

In General…

In the dormant season, when pruning, It is important to make a clean cut on canes at a 45-degree angle, sloping downward TOWARD the bush.

During the growing season, prune frequently by cutting just above 5-leaf leaflets, to encourage repeat blooming.

For a video going into detail about pruning roses, click here.

There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!

Pruning Crape Myrtles

Call the Police! A MURDER has been committed…CRAPE MURDER, that is! You’ve seen them around town, with the huge knots and multiple shoots becoming a mass on each branch. Don’t let your beautiful Crape Myrtle be a victim of this pruning crime. The natural shape of these southern landscape specimens, when pruned improperly, is lost!

When you are pruning most trees and bushes, a system of branching like the diagram to the right should be created. From each cut, 2 new branches will sprout. Your goal is to shape your Crape Myrtle, to help it grow naturally, and guess what? When it has reached its mature size…YOU DON’T HAVE TO PRUNE IT ANY MORE.

A critical mistake that is very often made is purchasing a Crape Myrtle that will grow bigger than the space provided. Then, it becomes necessary to prune it every year to keep it within it’s space limitations. This is a problem and ultimately leads to CRAPE MURDER!

The most important fact you need to know when selecting a Crape Myrtle is the mature size. There are many varieties… Dwarf (2-3 ft.), Small (8-10 ft.), Medium (15-20 ft.), and Large (25-30 ft.). Rule #1- Plant one that will fit in your space and be allowed to grow to it’s mature size.

Important Tips to Follow:

  • Prune in late January or February when plants are dormant (asleep, not producing new growth).
  • Never make a cut in the same spot you cut the previous year. You will end up with knuckles and this is the beginning of the destruction of a natural looking Crape Myrtle.
  • Take out any dead branches, or branches that are crossing over too close to others.
  • Remove suckers growing from the base of the tree. Try Bonide Sucker Punch to make this task easier… available in Wingard’s Plant Pharmacy.
  • Remove suckers from existing branches as needed to prevent too much density. Sun and air flow are important to promote healthy foliage and prevent disease.
  • Use GOOD, CLEAN, SHARP clippers. Check out the pruning tools in Wingard’s Gift Shoppe and find exactly what you need!

Click here for a video to learn how to properly trim Crape Myrtle Trees in your yard. There’s a popular slogan that refers to the improper trimming of Crape Myrtles known as “Crape Murder.” Don’t be Crape Murderers.

There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!

Growing Citrus in South Carolina

Is there anything better than fresh lemon or lime in a Margarita or a tall glass of Iced Tea?

Well, there is… if you harvested that lemon or lime from your own tree! Yes, you can do it here in the south, with just a little TLC. Because of frost and freezing temperatures in the winter, it is necessary to protect vulnerable tropical plants, by moving them into a greenhouse, garage or sunroom. In order to move it, your lemon or lime tree should be planted in a pot, rather than in the ground. When that first frost or freeze is upon us, go ahead and move it in. And, don’t forget about it …watering and direct light are still necessary!

  • Place it near a sunny window or use an indoor grow light (6 hours minimum needed), but NOT near an HVAC vent. Protect it from any draft.
  • Be sure not to over water. Let the soil dry out in between waterings.

An added extra for planting citrus in a pot is that you can ensure good, rich, soil. Transplant to a larger pot as it grows – don’t allow it to become root bound. Citrus are heavy feeders, so you will need to be diligent about fertilizing. We recommend Daddy Pete’s Sea & Farm Potting Soil, mixed with a little Stout Ollie Compost (the best organic nutritional additive ever). Fertilize 3 times/year with Espoma Citrus-tone (organic).

Move citrus plant(s) outdoors, once there is no danger of frost or freezing temperatures. Place in a spot that receives direct sun all day, or at least 6 hours.

As the weather warms up and especially during the hottest days of summer, more frequent watering will be required. Soak it when you water, but allow the soil to dry out in between watering. When top 2 inches are dry, it’s time to water. Avoid keeping the area around the trunk wet and NEVER allow plant roots to sit in water. Allow for good drainage by using Pot Pads underneath the pot to lift it off the ground. These are available in Wingard’s Gift Shoppe.

Most citrus are self-fertile, but hand-pollination with a small paint brush improves fruit production.

Little pruning is required, however, suckers, dead twigs and extra long growth should be removed. Clip off fruit as it ripens – DO NOT PULL.

A brand new shipment of citrus has just been received at Wingard’s Market. Stop in soon and take advantage of the large inventory.

Remember…
It’s five o’clock somewhere! Be ready!

There’s always something blooming at Wingard’s!

Check out our video below for more growing tips!

Derrick Gunter’s Heirloom Tomatoes

Derrick Gunter & Radiator Charlie Knew A Good Thing When They Saw It

By Tom Poland

Robert Clark and I were on the road running down a story, a story about land, a farmhouse, and tomatoes, a story of war, old ways, and survivors of sorts. On a hot, humid July morning we abandoned I-20 for Longs Pond Road and after a back road or two arrived at a farmhouse near the community of Boiling Springs. Two big blackjack oaks stood out front. Out back, a handsome, clapboard smokehouse looked lonely, its fellow outbuildings long-fallen comrades. “The other buildings were too far gone. We tore down the old cow barn in the summer of 2007,” said Derrick Gunter, the owner of this historic acreage in classic Sandhills Country.

Derrick grows heirloom tomatoes here in ancient sea bottom and he knows his history. (In fact, he teaches it.) Those trees of the Old South, blackjack oaks, almost never get much size to them, but Derrick’s did. He believes they may be the oldest blackjacks in the country. And you could say the trees know a thing or two about the Civil War. About thirty yards past the blackjacks, a low spot runs down Derrick’s property line on across Calks Ferry Road. As saplings, the blackjacks were standing when Sherman and his boys came through on the way to Columbia. Right near those trees Sherman and his troops bogged down in that low spot, a February rain-fed quagmire. The Union troops offloaded cannon balls and minnie [Minié] balls to lighten their load and better get through the morass. Several lifetimes later, Derrick’s grandfather found a cannon ball and “a shoe box full of minnie balls” alongside the road, a story that illustrates how much better supplied the North was than the South.

Another war came along and when housing construction exploded after World War II most homes were built of brick. The Hallman family built Derrick’s 1951 farmhouse with its German siding; it’s probably the last true farmhouse built in South Carolina. The house was built with cut nails and the walls were constructed with 4 by 6 un-planed studs. The house was built of about 90 percent heartpine.

“My dad got the property after a bachelor son died in 2004 and the house soon went to probate,” said Derrick. Derrick’s dad bought the farmhouse nine years ago. “I financed the reconstruction on the house and the land was gifted to me by my dad,” said Derrick.

Derrick began to work on the old home, whose interior sports handsome eastern white cedar tongue-and-groove paneling and real hardwood floors. The main room’s lacquer caramelized long ago when creosote in the chimney blazed up, roaring like a train barreling down the track.

Best Tomato I’ve Ever Eaten

The folks who sold the farmhouse to Derrick’s dad came up through the Depression. “They didn’t throw anything way,” said Derrick. “I threw away thousands of ties that wrapped loaves of bread.” Derrick and his dad had to make seven trips hauling off things like thousands of Duke Mayonnaise and peanut butter jars. They even found a 1920 receipt from Georgia for the Stuart pecan trees growing out back, $6.50 for six trees. Many folks who grew up in the Depression didn’t throw anything away. They had a mantra: “Keep something seven years, and you’ll find a new use for it.”

Derrick’s dad gifted him some land adjoining the farmhouse and that led to a decision. How best to spend summer days. Derrick teaches U.S. History at White Knoll High School. He has his summers free. “You’ve got all that time off in the summer,” said his mother, “why don’t you grow peanuts?”

“The land was cleared before I moved into the farmhouse during 2009. That was before I got married. In 2011, I was questioned about growing peanuts. I researched heirloom tomatoes and planted them instead. Then his dad passed along some sage advice. “Don’t grow peanuts. It’s a lot of work and will drive you crazy. Grow tomatoes,” he said remembering a Russian heirloom tomato a neighbor up the road had brought them. Derrick knew the tomato his dad was referring to. He had made a sandwich from it. “Best tomato I’ve ever eaten.”

That Russian heirloom? It’s called a “Black From Tula.” It’s a big “black” tomato with 3- to 4-inch, slightly flattened, oblate, dark brown to purple fruit. It has deep green shoulders. Its flavor is heavenly, rich, slightly salty, with a smoky-fruit flavor. Another popular heirloom is the Marion, developed by the Clemson Extension Service in 1963. “Old timers love it,” said Derrick.

Radiator Charlie

Derrick started out with 20 plants, a test run featuring eight varieties. Four failed but four did well. History enthusiast Derrick forged ahead. “When my son Jackson Lee—I named him after Robert E Lee and Stonewall Jackson, whom I consider the best two generals in American history—was born in 2013, it didn’t deter my expansion of growing tomatoes. Farming was foreign to my wife since she grew up Rock Hill but she has adjusted quite well to this kind of life.” Today, Derrick grows mainline varieties with names as colorful as they are. Cherokee Purple, Black Krim (Crimean), German Johnson, a pink tomato, and the most colorful name of all, Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter.

“Radiator Charlie,” said Derrick, “owned land. That was the only thing he had. He had ethics and common sense but no education. He had will power and made a success of himself.” Radiator Charlie’s story is one of more than making do, of finding a way not just to survive but prosper. In the early 1930s, Marshall Cletis Byles was going through a tough time in his hometown of Logan, West Virginia. He ran a small repair shop at the bottom of a mountain, a good location, for the mountain was famed for overheating trucks, sending them steaming and hissing back down the mountain. He got a lot of business from trucks that never made it to the top, thus the moniker “Radiator Charlie.”

The Great Depression was making its presence known and Byles decided to develop a large tomato families could feast on. Though he had no training in plants he knew what he liked. He started with a German Johnson, Beefsteaks, an unknown Italian variety, and an unknown English variety. He grew plants from each variety and planted three Beefsteaks, three of the Italian variety, and three of the English variety in a circle. In the center, he planted the German Johnson.

Using a baby syringe, he cross-pollinated the German Johnson with pollen from other plants in the circle. He saved the seeds and planted them the next year. He selected the best seedlings and planted them in the middle of a circle, surrounded by the other seedlings. He repeated this strategy for six years, cross-pollinating the strongest plants in the center with pollen from plants in the circle. He ended up with a pretty good tomato and sold the seedlings for $1.00 each, a nice sum in his day. People drove hundreds of miles to buy his seeds. And here’s why. Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifters are red and pink, amongst the most flavorful heirloom tomatoes, and big, averaging 2 to 4 pounds. They bear fruit in about 80 days, are perfect for slicing, and produce an abundant crop. On top of that they resist disease and produce until frost does them in. Radiator Charlie, unlike all those trucks, climbed a mountain of his own and ascended to legend. Growers like Radiator Charlie and Derrick Gunter free you and me of red, perfect, tasteless grocery store tomatoes.

The Nurturing Cycle

Most American heirlooms trace their heritage to the mountains of Tennessee, North Carolina, Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia, and Ohio. Yes, Ohio has mountains. They do well in these areas because of the climate. Down here, heat and humidity are heirlooms’ enemies. Derrick’s do well he says because “I nurture them.” That he does. You can make the case that the cycle of nurturing starts with the preparation of seeds, but we’ll discuss that last. Let’s start with planting.

In spring, he puts in twenty hours a week. He digs holes, plants, and lays down mulch. He prefers rye or wheat straw for mulch. Such mulch really cuts down on weeds. He gets his mulch from Stanley Shumpert, Lexington County’s last dairy farmer and his uncle.

He grows plants organically, though he points out that he isn’t “certified organic.” He plants marigolds as a natural pesticide. “I haven’t used any insecticides at all this year,” says Derrick. Marigolds deliver other bonuses. They attract beneficial wasps and pollinators and repel deer and nematodes.

He uses fish fertilizer on the plants. With the heavy lifting behind him, Derrick works six and a half hours a week during the growing season. When he’s ready to plant them he rinses them in water with just a touch of bleach to kill any pathogens present. A week before Valentine’s Day he puts the seeds in “grow soil” beneath grow lights. “After a month, they go into bigger pots,” said Derrick. “The first of April they can go into the soil.” Derrick plants one variety per row. Tomatoes are self-pollinators. Each plant has both sexes needed for pollination. Isolating tomatoes can reduce cross-pollination but wind and bees will still cross-pollinate them.

Now comes the growing season, the nurturing season’s apex when rain is a blessing, a time that makes many a kitchen a better place, a time that makes restaurant owners happy. “Naturally, one to two inches of rain per week is preferable,” said Derrick. “However, that’s not usually the case. If you are going to water your plants, it’s best to use a slow drip system. I avoid directly watering the plants from the top. That speeds up fungal problems.” He passes a tip along for us would-be growers: “It’s better to underwater than overwater.”

All the nurturing produces vines bejeweled with tomatoes of varying colors result, not the monochromatic red so prevalent in non-heirloom varieties. From these not-so-round heirloom tomatoes come savory flavors. Among them, Derrick seeks the progenitors of next season’s plants.

“I go to the middle of the row and pick out the biggest, healthiest tomatoes for seeds. Once he collects the seeds, he puts them in a cup of water in a jar. He shakes it to break up the gel that coats the seeds. The next step is to place the seeds on paper towels where they dry. When they’re good and dry, into the refrigerator they go until planting time. That’s when the real fun begins for those who love a classic sandwich thick with slices of summer’s savory heirloom tomatoes slathered with Duke’s mayonnaise.

“An heirloom tomato,” says Derrick, “is a heritage variety that has been lost to hybridization that’s red, round, “perfect,” and tasteless. This prompts Derrick to quote the late Andy Rooney. “The federal government has sponsored research that has produced a tomato that is perfect in every respect, except that you can’t eat it.”

Heirloom tomatoes serve up a lesson about people. In our image-crazed society, pretty people generally get a lot more attention than they deserve, sort of like round, red, perfect tasteless tomatoes. How easily we overlook what really matters. Plain people, often relegated to the background, quietly go about their business making the world a better place.

As for Derrick Gunter? Well, he made a good decision when he chose to plant heirloom tomatoes, not peanuts. Consider him a bit of a preservationist. “The benefit of the heirloom is remembering the past and securing the future,” said Derrick. “When you’re dead and gone, your family can enjoy the exact same thing you enjoyed. We as a society, by preserving our heritage produce in a fast-changing world, give others a never-changing world. Something that stands the test of time.”

Derrick Gunter’s Tomato Sandwich Recipe
White Sunbeam Bread
Duke’s Mayonnaise only
Any fully ripe pink or black or mixture heirloom tomato
Salt & Pepper
Armor Brand Dried Beef

Derrick Gunter’s Fried Green Tomatoes Recipe
Any green tomato
Salt for 45 minutes to draw water out
Slice average thickness
Sprinkle with salt
Coat with mix half self-rising flour and half fish fry mix
Fry in vegetable or peanut oil

About the Author: Tom Poland’s work has appeared in magazines throughout the South. Among his recent books are Classic Carolina Road Trips from Columbia; Georgialina: A Southland, as We Knew It; and Reflections of South Carolina, Vol2. Swamp Gravy, Georgia’s Official Folk Life Drama, staged his play, Solid Ground. He writes a weekly column for newspapers and journals in Georgia and South Carolina about the South, its people, traditions, lifestyle and changing culture and speaks to groups across South Carolina and Georgia. Tom grew up in Lincoln County, Georgia, and graduated from the University of Georgia. He lives in Columbia, South Carolina, where he writes about “Georgialina” – his name for eastern Georgia and South Carolina.

This article is also a chapter in Tom’s recent book, “South Carolina Country Roads: Of Train Depots, Filling Stations & Other Vanishing Charms,” which can be purchased on Amazon.com.

A Taste of the Tropics with Houseplants

Bring the bright and sunny feeling of a tropical vacation to your home with the addition of a few new houseplants. A perfect home décor addition, houseplants not only enhance ambiance, they also cleanse and freshen air. Studies have also shown that the presence of houseplants in your home and office can elevate your mood, reduce stress and anxiety, and improve focus and performance. Houseplants are able to enrich your life in so many ways, however, we suggest that you take a few things into consideration when making your selection to ensure that your tropical treasure will not only survive but thrive.

Crape Myrtles

No yard or landscape should be without a crape myrtle, or two, or three or… many! How wonderful to have something that blooms so profusely during that time of year when most other plants are looking tired and worn from the summer heat and drought. The versatility of this plant makes it suitable for many types of yards and many uses, and once established, they will go on to add charm and delight to the landscape for many years.

About Crape Myrtles

Crape myrtles bloom in late summer and can be found in flower colors of pinks, lilac, white, reds and purples. Requiring very little maintenance once established, crape myrtles need a full sun location to thrive and they do not like wet feet. Keep these needs in mind when selecting a site to plant them. They will require some supplemental watering for the first year or so to get off to a good start and develop good roots. Crape myrtles are also pretty much pest-free, except for aphids on occasion and these are easily controlled with an insecticidal soap spray. Some varieties are more susceptible to powdery mildew than others but most of the newer varieties are more resistant to this fungus problem.

Planting Crape Myrtles

Although tolerant of a wide range of soil qualities, crape myrtles grow poorly in wet locations so be sure to select a well-drained planting site. Late spring to early summer is the best time to select and plant your new crape myrtles while they are actively growing and can settle in quickly. Plant at or slightly above ground level, spreading the roots out slightly and using mulch to protect and shelter the roots after planting. They do prefer a slightly acid soil.

Crape Myrtle Types

Crape myrtles can be found in shrub, multi-stem tree and single trunk tree forms. For best results select a cultivar whose growth characteristics and ultimate mature size fit your intended use. Planting a shrub- or tree-like crape myrtle in an area of limited space will require yearly pruning to keep it from outgrowing its place.  Severe pruning distorts the beauty of the  Single- or multi-stemmed tree-form crape myrtles are ideal as flowering specimen trees or as small, flowering shade trees near patios, walkways and entrances.

Pruning Crape Myrtles

If you plant a cultivar whose growth characteristics and ultimate mature size fit your intended use, little pruning will be required.  Don’t plant a variety that grows 25 feet tall, if you want a tree that will max out at 15 feet tall.

If adequate room is provided, little pruning is required except to maintain shape or remove any dead or crossing branches. Remove any suckers or water sprouts to maintain tree forms and elegance. Blossoms are produced on new growth so you can prune anytime the plants are dormant through the winter.  For Wingard’s own “How To” video on pruning crape myrtles, click here.

With so much to love about these plants, there’s no reason not to add one to your yard this year! And next year, and the year after that, and the year after that…

Top 10 Ways to Add Curb Appeal to your Home

Top 10 Ways to Add Curb Appeal to your Home

A well-kept home is a joy to behold.

Curb appeal is that undefinable something that draws you to a home at a glance. It is a combination of visual charm, good upkeep, and attention to detail. And often will be the thing that makes you the envy of the neighborhood.

Here are 10 ways you can add great curb appeal to your home:

  1. Surround your property with fencing

Fencing for your yard is needed to keep wildlife from eating the nasturtiums, but it also provides a quiet oasis to enjoy the beauty of your outdoor space. Fencing can be six-foot high cedar that blocks traffic noise, or it can be white wicker that is only tall enough to delineate the perimeter of your property.

  1. Don’t leave your landscape in the dark

Think about accent lighting highlighting your prize plantings. Patio lights can be judiciously used to make your gazebo comfortable for a late evening get together with friends. Insect zapper lights get mixed reviews since they can be noisy as the insects are incinerated. They also tend to have a harsh brightness that is annoying to some. On the positive side, outlining pathways with small lights prevents stumbles in the twilight.

  1. Lawn furniture

Spending a lot of time just relaxing and enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of a flower garden can be done from a gazebo with sturdy and comfortable garden furniture. Tables, chairs, lounges, and footstools are obvious choices for furniture in the garden area. A grill or barbecue unit located nearby means guests can enjoy the space while grilling fresh produce from the garden. Corn on the cob from the vegetable garden can’t get any fresher.

  1. Plan garden beds

Many gardens would be beautifully accessorized by adding carefully chosen raised garden beds. Look at the style of your house and design the garden plots for pansies or potatoes in garden beds that enhance the look of the house. For example, if your house is split level suburban, why not add a couple split level beds.

Few projects add as much charm and color to a house as flowers in window boxes.

Build your own window box or buy one from a garden center. Use a plastic liner to prolong the life of the planter and simplify fall cleanup. Easier yet, arrange container gardens in pots and planters on the front stoop or along the walkway.

  1. Simple changes make the biggest impact – the $10 idea!

If your mailbox is old, replacing it will instantly change your curb appeal for the better. Mailboxes are relatively inexpensive, and there are many ways that you can make yours look better. If you don’t really want to part with your old mailbox, you could just give it a fresh coat of paint.

A fresh coat of paint on garage doors will instantly make your exterior look better. Garage doors tend to get dirty and faded from all the up and down movement and should probably be repainted every few years.

Replacing hardware on your mailbox, house numbers, doorbell, door knocker, entry light and door handle will make a huge improvement to the look and feel of your home.

Get a little daring, and paint the front door red or blue.

  1. Make pathways interesting

A planned landscape that has permanent beds can also have interesting and decorative pathways.  Think about using colored aquarium pebbles with a seashell motif for edging. Try pathways that meander according to your planned beds rather than sticking to straight lines. Maybe you would like to have a yellow brick road as a pathway in your garden.

  1. Choose colorful or whimsical containers

If a large garden is too much to manage in your free time, or if you are working in limited space, think about establishing your garden in unusual containers. Or, such containers can be simply an interesting accessory to the real garden. Colorful ceramic pots in large sizes and shapes can be placed randomly amongst the flower beds to hold herbs or a salad or two. An old claw-footed bathtub or a little red wagon both make great containers for garden plants.

Even add a bit of your own personality with a garden flag that offers a warm welcome to your visitors and can be changed out with the seasons.  

  1. Add Color

You can add color to the plants that you choose or by the containers you pick for spots of color.  Look for ways to make color spots show up even better by putting them against contrasting background of other plants, walls or trellises.

Plant a tulip border in the fall that will bloom in the spring. Dig a flowerbed by the mailbox and plant some pansies. Place a brightly colored bench or Adirondack chair on the front porch. 

  1. Delight the wee folk

Adding whimsical statuary or ornaments to your garden plots can be fun and useful as well.  Garden gnomes, leprechauns and perhaps even a fairy or too can be an adventure to undertake with your child or grandchild. A ceramic frog by a garden pond is a common sight around gardens, but have you ever seen a dragonfly or a small fire-breathing dragon. Choose a copper weather vane or a birdhouse decorated like a fairytale castle.

  1. Five senses

A well-planned landscape with carefully chosen accessories will be a delight to all five senses. You see the beautiful colors in the plants, flowers, and accessories. You feel the texture of the earth as well as the crisp vegetables that are picked for culinary enjoyment. You can smell the perfume of the flowers and trees. Tasting fresh produce from the garden is a bonanza for your taste buds.  Finally, your sense of hearing is able to pick up the sound of the wind in a set of wind chimes.  Wind chimes are decorative and can sound melodic or mournful, tinkling or hearty. 

Plan your garden accessories to appeal to each, and every human sense and your garden will be a place where your spirit is uplifted.

Take a trip to your favorite local award-winning Lexington, SC garden center, Wingard’s Market for everything you need to make your garden have the best curb appeal of the neighborhood!

For more tips and ideas for adding curb appeal to your home watch Wingard’s TV “Curb Appeal” videos here.

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Here at Wingard’s Market, we specialize in providing outstanding customer service, offering professional gardening advice, and answers to your everyday gardening questions. Stop by and visit our Beautiful Gift Shoppe and Fresh Produce Market while you stroll under century-old pecan trees. It’s truly a Garden Wonderland!

Located at 1403 North Lake Drive in Lexington, SC. Call us at (803) 359-9091

Tips for Spring Gardening

It happens every year.

Tips for Spring Gardening

One day it’s gloomy, bleak, and cold, and the next it’s warm and sunny. With the sunshine, you start thinking about spring gardening, but you didn’t prepare as you should have.

What do you do? It’s easy.

Spring gardening can be a fun and relaxing activity, especially if it’s done correctly. By following these simple tips, you will make the most out of spring gardening.

  • The first step to spring gardening is sharpening your tools. Start early and sharpen all your tools, such as shovels, hoes, and pruning shears, to a fine edge. We carry any easy to use sharpening tool in the Wingard’s Market Gift Shop. You may even want to splurge on buying a second, well-sharpened blade for your lawnmower. That way you will have a spare if the one currently on your lawnmower needs to be sharpened. A sharp mower blade is critical if you want to have a beautiful lawn. Dull blades can injure your grass and allow the disease to creep in, which can be costly in the long run to correct.
  • If you plan to put in a new lawn or plant bed, or if you had problems getting things to grow properly last year, you may want to get your soil tested. A soil test will tell you exactly what type of nutrients are needed to assure your yard looks the best it can. (We carry Clemson Extention Soil Test bags here at Wingard’s)
  • A helpful tip for spring gardening, especially if you need a little help getting your yard into shape, is using our landscape design services early, before the rush starts. The later in the season you call, the longer your wait time for an appointment.
  • Make arrangements early to buy sod or for sod delivery, if you plan to put in a new lawn. You should choose only moist rolls. Any that have dry roots or yellowed turf is no good.
  • Keeping a journal is a great way to keep track of plants during spring gardening. You can write down what was a success last year, what was a failure, and what plants should be moved with the change of seasons. It will prove not only useful this year but also next year when you may not remember all of the small details. Keeping informational plant tags comes in handy, when you want to replace or add more of a particular variety.
  • A definite must is throwing away any outdated chemicals. Follow the instructions on the label. Also, check to make sure those you are keeping are stored where children and pets cannot get to them.
  • Tilling the soil where you plan to begin your spring gardening is essential. Handfuls of the soil should easily crumble. Add soil amendments:  Wingard’s Soil Conditioner for clay soil, and Wingard’s Premium Potting Mix for sandy soil.  The additional composted organic matter will enrich your sandy soil, which is devoid of nutrients.  At Wingard’s, we recommend Stout Ollie, a made- in South Carolina compost consisting of plant material from the cotton ginning process, fish trimmings from the Santee Cooper lakes and cow manure from the manufacturer’s own herd.
  • Lastly, while engaging in spring gardening, you have to remember to prune. Generally, you prune spring-blooming shrubs immediately after the flowers fade. 

Now that you know what to do, your spring gardening won’t be so much of a chore, but more of a pleasure and a chance to get out and enjoy that spring sunshine.

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Here at Wingard’s Market, we specialize in providing outstanding customer service, offering professional gardening advice, and answers to your everyday gardening questions. Stop by and visit our Beautiful Gift Shoppe and Fresh Produce Market while you stroll under century-old pecan trees. It’s truly a Garden Wonderland!

Located at 1403 North Lake Drive in Lexington, SC. Call us at (803) 359-9091

How to Spot Cold Weather Damage on Your Plants

cold weather damage

Are your outside plants looking a little sad? 

Don’t give up hope on them just yet!  We have a list of tips and ideas to guide you through taking care of those plants that have been damaged by the cold snap we’ve experienced.  Typically, temperatures falling below freezing will quickly damage or even kill many types of plants. However, with prompt care, many of these cold damaged plants can be rescued.

Here in the Midlands, the January cold snap, especially following the warm November and December have affected plants that are generally cold hardy. 

tree and shrucb foodTake a walk through your yard and look for these signs on your camellias, tea olives, hollies, and podocarpus: 

  • If leaves that are typically green in the winter have turned brown, resist the temptation to “fix” them.  Don’t do anything right now. 
  • Wait until the weather warms up and then fertilize after April 1 with a general tree and shrub fertilizer. 
  • Wait until after new growth appears to prune away dead branches.
  • Camellia buds may drop without opening into full flowers.  There is nothing you can do about that.  Next year protect your camellias with a blanket and Christmas tree lights if you want to preserve the buds during a hard freeze.

Sometimes plants such as azaleas, pittosporum, hollies, gardenias, and mimosa trees won’t make their damage seen until the heat kicks in about June.  

  • If you see branches beginning to yellow and die out this summer, look closely at the bark on the dying branches.  If you see that the bark has split, this is due to the sap freezing in January. 
  • When the plant tries to function in the summer, it can’t get enough water and nutrients up its stems, so it dies back. 
  • If the affected areas are just some of the limbs, you can cut out the dead material and let the plant recover.
  • If the primary trunk is affected, the plant may not survive.

Plants that are rated Zone 8 & higher such as lomandra breeze grass, oleander, bottle brush, lantana, and angel trumpets may have been severely damaged during the January freeze.

  • Fertilize with a general tree and shrub fertilizer after April 1. 
  • Wait until the weather warms up and look for new growth pushing out.  If you get new growth, the plant survived. 
  • Cut back dead plant material and wait for the plant to recover through the summer. 
  • If you don’t see new growth by June, dig it up, throw it away and plant a new one. 

palm tree food Sago Palms

  • If the cold got to your Zone 8+ Sago Palms, they may look particularly dead and unattractive right now.  Don’t do anything. 
  • Fertilize with a palm tree fertilizer after April 1.  We recommend Carl Pool Palm Food. Or if you have had problems with scale on your Palms in the past, use Fertilome Palm Tree Food with Systemic Insecticide.
  • New growth will appear out of the center of the palm in late May early June. 
  • Wait until after the new growth appears before you cut off the brown fronds.

How much cold will kill a plant is not an easy question to answer. Be sure to look up the cold hardiness for the plant in question before leaving the plant outside. Some plants can survive sub-freezing temperatures for months while others cannot take temperatures below 50 F. (10 C.) for more than a few hours.

palm tree food 8-6-6

Here in the Midlands, we are rated zone 8a.  The average extreme minimum temperature for zone 8a is 10-15 degrees.  Coastal SC is rated zone 8b.  The average extreme minimum temperature for zone 8b is 15-20 degrees.  If a plant is rated hardy for Zone 8-10, it should survive temperatures that fall as low as 10 degrees. However, we have found that some zone 8 plants are hardy to zone 8b but less so for 8a.  In other words, they will survive 15-20 degree temps, but not less than 15-degree temps.  Also, we have found that a plant might survive one night of 14-degree temp, but several nights in a row will do it in.  Also, remember that if a plant is rated hardy for zones 8-10, it likes warmer weather since zone 10 is South Florida.  Zone 8 is its northernmost border of survivability.  So, a zone 8-10 plant would be potentially more susceptible to extreme cold than would a zone 7-9 plant.

While saving frozen plants is possible, freeze damage to plant tissue and other cold injuries can often be prevented. When frost or freezing conditions are expected, you can protect tender plants by covering them with sheets, burlap sacks, or “frost cloth.” These should be removed once the sun returns the following morning. It’s vital as a gardener you watch the weather forecast and protect your plants when needed.

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Here at Wingard’s Market, we specialize in providing outstanding customer service, offering professional gardening advice, and answers to your everyday gardening questions. Stop by and visit our Beautiful Gift Shoppe and Fresh Produce Market while you stroll under century-old pecan trees. It’s truly a Garden Wonderland!

Located at 1403 North Lake Drive in Lexington, SC. Call us at (803) 359-9091

African Violets 101

African Violets

In beautiful shades of purple, pink and white, the continuous blooms of African violets will add bursts of color to your windowsill for years to come.

Many gardeners shy away from these little indoor tropical plants, but we’re here to tell you there is no need. With a bit of guidance and proper care, you can easily add them to your collection of houseplants.

As with any other plants, African violets need all of the necessary elements to stay healthy; light, water, soil, food, and air. 

Here is a basic list of what these cheerful indoor plants need to stay healthy:

  • LIGHT: Adequate light is the most critical factor in promoting flowering. Place plants near any window that has bright, but filtered, light.  An east window is best because it gets morning sun.  A thin curtain will be necessary if placing plants in a south or west window.  In order to develop a nice symmetrical form, plants must be turned 1/4 turn every week.
  • African Violet FoodWATER: More violets die from over-watering than from any other single cause. Violet soil should be kept evenly moist and never allowed to become soggy. Water only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch.  Always use tepid water. You can water from the top or bottom, use wicks, or use self-watering  However, about once a month, plants should be watered from the top to flush out accumulated fertilizer salts.  Never allow plants to stand in water and if water gets on the leaves, dry with a paper towel to prevent leaf spotting.
  • SOIL: A potting medium suitable for African violets should be sterilized, and light and airy to allow root penetration. Soil-less mixes are ideal – they contain sphagnum peat, vermiculite, and   We recommend Espoma Organic African Violet Premium Potting Mix.
  • FOOD: Lack of regular feeding is one of the reasons an African violet will not bloom. The best way to feed is to use a dilute fertilizer solution every time you water.  Use 1/8 to 1/4 tsp. of fertilizer to one gallon of water.  A balanced fertilizer should be used, such as Bonide Liquid African Violet Plant Food 7-10-7.  It is best to use a fertilizer with a low nitrogen urea content as urea burns the roots. 
  • AIR: Temperature and humidity are important factors. Most violets can tolerate temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees.  Ideal temperatures are 72-75 degrees day-time and 65 degrees night-time.  The preferred humidity range is 40% to 60%.  A humidifier or bowls of water placed near plants can be used to increase your home’s humidity during the heating season.

For continued care, African violets should be repotted once a year.  They tend to like tight pots, so use a new pot that is only slightly larger than the old one. Remove one-third of the old soil and replace it with new and make sure the crown of the plant is just above the soil line and water thoroughly.

If taken care of, your new African violet will reward you with beautiful blooms all year long.

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Here at Wingard’s Market, we specialize in providing outstanding customer service, offer professional gardening advice, and answers to your everyday gardening questions. Stop by and visit our Beautiful Gift Shoppe and Fresh Produce Market while you stroll under century-old pecan trees. It’s truly a Garden Wonderland!

Located at 1403 North Lake Drive in Lexington, SC. Call us at (803) 359-9091